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El Curandero at El Potrero Chico: A Sharp Dance Over the Bulge

Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon Mexico
crimpy
bulge
technical
slab
short pitch
limestone
sun exposure
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
El Curandero
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Curandero offers a compact yet demanding slab climb on El Potrero Chico’s Mini Super Wall. Its defining feature is a sharp, crimpy bulge crux that tests finger strength and sequencing before easing into sustained vertical moves."

El Curandero at El Potrero Chico: A Sharp Dance Over the Bulge

El Curandero stands as a concise yet intense challenge on the slabby walls of El Potrero Chico’s Mini Super Wall. This 85-foot sport climb demands more than just physical strength—it calls for precision and mental focus as you navigate a slab ramp before confronting a formidable bulge that commands all your attention. The approach to this bulge is steeped in tension; the holds are small and unforgiving, requiring careful finger placements and a finely tuned sequence that, once figured out, unlocks the way forward. Beyond this defining crux, the route eases into sustained vertical climbing peppered with moves in the 10+ to 11- range. These sections reward steady movement and confident footwork along clean rock with moderate rests to gather yourself.

The Mini Super Wall sits on the eastern flank of El Potrero Chico, a towering limestone playground in Nuevo Leon, northern Mexico, where sun-bleached rock meets high desert air. The approach trail is straightforward but dry, so climbers should bring sufficient water and sun protection before stepping onto the wall’s surface, which heats up quickly under the bright Mexican sun. The bolted protection—six bolts topped by solid chains—gives reassurance, yet the bolt spacing demands careful reading of the line and disciplined clipping, especially at the crux where every move counts.

For climbers looking to test their limit in short bursts, El Curandero delivers a measured adrenaline shot. It's less about raw power and more about body positioning and patience to outsmart the bulge’s tight grips. The sharp texture of the limestone engages your fingers fully, sharpening your touch for crimps and subtle smears alike. Evening sessions or early mornings are best to avoid heat exhaustion; the wall’s eastern exposure means it catches the sun early and holds it throughout the day.

Getting to El Potrero Chico is an experience in itself. The nearby town of Hidalgo offers a gateway with basic amenities before you immerse yourself in this climber’s haven. The wall’s openness provides sweeping views across dry canyons, with the occasional desert breeze teasing your skin and heightening your sense of presence as you engage with the rock. Prepare well—good shoes for slab, plenty of chalk, and a strong mental game will serve you best on this focused, powerful pitch.

Climber Safety

Watch your clipping on the crux since bolt spacing leaves little room for error. The sharp limestone can be abrasive, so skin protection and controlled movement are essential. Be cautious of falling rock above and keep an eye on weather as sudden storms can increase risk.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the eastern-facing wall.

Use sticky rubber shoes to maintain confident footholds on the slab.

Chalk up liberally to combat the sharp, small crimps around the bulge.

Hydrate well—shade is limited on the approach and the wall itself.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a grade fits the route’s technical finesse; the crux bulge pushes the difficulty to its peak with tight, sequence-dependent moves that demand finger strength and precision. After the bulge, the climbing settles into sustained climbing around 10+/11-, rewarding steady rhythm rather than explosive power. Compared to other El Potrero Chico sport routes, El Curandero is a focused test of technique, especially on slab and small edges.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts protect the route, spaced to challenge careful clipping, finished with sturdy chains at the anchor. Bring quickdraws suited for crimpy, technical terrain.

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Tags

crimpy
bulge
technical
slab
short pitch
limestone
sun exposure