Ejesta Climb at Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite

Yosemite Valley, California United States
hand crack
air traverse
moderate 5.8
two pitch
granite
Yosemite
Length: 210 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Ejesta
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ejesta at Reed's Pinnacle offers a balanced two-pitch trad climb featuring a steady first pitch and a rewarding handcrack traverse on the second. Ideal for climbers wanting an approachable Yosemite classic with tasteful exposure and solid granite challenges."

Ejesta Climb at Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite

Ejesta offers a straightforward yet rewarding climb set in the dramatic Lower Merced River Canyon, within the heart of Yosemite National Park. The first pitch threads its way up a section of broken rock, presenting mainly moderate moves peppered with a couple of 5.7 challenges that keep you engaged without overwhelming. This pitch culminates in a secure belay spot carefully tucked into a natural alcove, providing a moment of rest and focus before you tackle the climb’s highlight.

The second pitch demands attention and skill; it stretches for 120 feet along a compelling double-hand crack that pulls your hands deep into the rock, testing your grip and balance in measured succession. The climb flows upward before launching into an exposed traverse to the right. This section stands out with its positive handholds and undercut footholds, requiring a delicate but confident foot placement to maintain rhythm and avoid losing momentum. The traverse, while airy, rewards climbers with a palpable sense of exposure that heightens the experience without unnecessary danger.

Overall, Ejesta is a solid two-pitch traditional climb, spanning about 210 feet of vertical terrain. The route requires a standard rack inclusive of protection up to 3 inches, a testament to the crack’s accommodating size and the route’s accessible character. While some climbers have reported completing the climb in a single push using a 70-meter rope, this is not the common practice—double ropes are usually recommended for a smooth and safe descent via rappel.

Accessing Reed’s Pinnacle means entering a stunning zone of Yosemite Valley where the Lower Merced River gently carves its course beneath towering cliffs. The surrounding landscape is rugged yet approachable, blending the raw granite with soft whispers of pines rustling in the breeze. The climb is practical for those looking to experience Yosemite’s iconic rock without the high-grade commitment, making it a welcome adventure for intermediate climbers seeking challenge paired with scenic payoff.

The comparatively modest rating of 5.8 signals a climb that, while technically manageable, still demands respect: precise footwork, firm crack-hand techniques, and thoughtful protection placements are all part of the challenge. Hydration and footwear are critical considerations, especially in warmer months when sun exposure increases. Early starts or late afternoon ascents are best to avoid the heat, as the granite holds temperature well.

Equip yourself with a well-rounded rack, including cams fitting up to 3 inches to secure the crack. The route’s nature ensures placements are straightforward but demand a sharp eye. Remember, the approach is moderately short but can feel drawn-out if you carry heavy gear, so pack light where possible while maintaining essentials.

With an unpretentious style blending practical climbing with Yosemite’s distinctive granite ambiance, Ejesta offers an engaging climb that suits a broad spectrum of climbers. This is not a climb for thrill seekers chasing extremes but for those who appreciate solid crack climbing, a taste of airy exposure, and a chance to move deliberately through a classic piece of granite wilderness.

Climber Safety

The first pitch’s broken rock requires careful foot placement to avoid loose debris. The airy traverse on pitch two demands steady feet and secure handholds; watch your step to prevent slips. A double-rope rappel setup is recommended for a controlled descent, as one rope may present complications.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length210 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the heat on exposed granite surfaces.

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging for the undercut footholds on the traverse.

Bring plenty of water—Yosemite’s sun can quickly drain energy even at moderate effort.

Using double ropes simplifies descent; be prepared for a rappel from the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating for Ejesta reflects a climb that feels approachable yet undeniably technical in sections, especially on the second pitch’s handcrack and airy traverse. The grade is generally true to form, with the crux moves falling comfortably within this level without feeling watered down. Climbers accustomed to Yosemite trad routes will find Ejesta a solid moderate challenge, comparable to other classic moderate crack climbs in the valley.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches as needed for secure protection throughout the crack system. A 70m rope can allow a single-pitch ascent for experienced climbers, though two ropes are recommended for safe rappels.

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Tags

hand crack
air traverse
moderate 5.8
two pitch
granite
Yosemite