Economique presents an engaging test of skill and resolve on the sun-soaked cliffs of Wheeler Gorge, just off Highway 33 near Ojai, California. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 80 feet along a sharp arete that curves around a prominent corner, setting itself apart from its more frequented neighbor, Goulara. From the moment your fingers find the gritty rock just off the ground, the route demands attention—its first 5.10a move is an unprotected leap of faith above an unforgiving landing. A stick-clip is essential here, offering a layer of security as you engage with this bold opening that sets the tone for the entire climb.

Once past the crux, the climbing relaxes slightly with mostly 5.8 movements, weaving the line up and left along the face with a rhythm that feels focused but approachable. Exposure defines the route; the vertical rock face offers expansive views of the canyon below and the wooded hills beyond, where the breeze carries the scent of pine and the distant hum of the Central Coast’s natural chorus. The sun warms the rock throughout the morning, making it ideal to start early before temperatures climb.

With a total of seven bolts leading to a fixed anchor, your protection comes cleanly from the sport climbing hardware, though the anchors top out with a 1/2-inch rawl and a 3/8-inch wedge bolt equipped with mussy hooks that speak to the area’s classic bolting history. Climbers seeking to toprope Economique often clip the first three bolts of Goulara before cutting left to follow Economique’s line, making for a smooth transition onto top anchors that serve both routes.

For those leading the climb, consider extending the seventh bolt with a long runner and finishing on the Goulara anchor system. This approach reduces rope drag and helps manage the technical crux with confidence. The route’s moderately sustained nature, combined with a steep initial challenge and solid protection, makes Economique a rewarding choice for climbers aiming to sharpen their sport climbing skills in a setting rich with natural rawness and opportunity.

Planning your ascent requires preparation: sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will help secure the critical early holds, while hydration is key—Ojai’s inland climate can warm quickly, especially on exposed rock. The nearby trailhead offers accessibility with a brief approach on well-maintained paths, but the rock’s steepness means careful footwork is necessary. Timing your climb for early morning not only offers cooler conditions but often reveals the gorge in quiet majesty before the afternoon crowds arrive.

Economique invites climbers into a partnership with Wheeler Gorge’s rugged geology, where every clip and hold feels vital. It’s a climb that rewards respect and readiness, blending solid sport climbing with the scenery and spirit of California’s Central Coast. Prepare well, move deliberately, and the climb’s thrilling dance with exposure and movement will unfold beneath your hands.