"EB Jeebies offers a punchy, technical trad climb on Lumpy Ridge's NW face. Short but demanding, this 80-foot route challenges climbers with jam cracks and a gritty dihedral, perfect for a focused trad workout in the shade."
EB Jeebies stands out on the NW face of Lumpy Ridge as a compact, technical climb that demands both power and precision. Clocking in at just under 80 feet, this single-pitch trad route offers a striking groove and jam crack nestled in a dihedral that immediately captures your attention as you approach from the base. The climb sits just to the left of the deep water groove known locally as Twig's Lament and beneath the sharp West arête, which adds a rugged silhouette to the setting.
From the start, a boulder perched on the West arête invites you to launch into the climb. A well-placed green Alien cam can be set directly from this boulder, offering confidence as you begin to tackle the groove's hanging edge. Powerful body moves lead into a jam crack that runs up to the dihedral—a zone where technique meets endurance. The dihedral itself presents a toothy hand-to-fist crack that demands sustained jamming skills and mental focus to reach the top. On the left side, the slightly overhanging wall provides good friction with scattered holds and dishes, giving short, strategic rests to break up the effort.
Approach the climb in the cooler morning hours, as the NW face keeps you mostly in shade until mid-afternoon, allowing you to avoid overheating on sunny days. The overall feel is straightforward but packs a workout, especially given the short length which concentrates the challenge into a brief, intense burst. Climbers can find small natural resting spots about 20 feet from the top near a scrappy tree and subtle grooves, a welcome relief before the final moves.
The exit off the summit is a scramble downhill to the southeast, making an easy and safe finish without the need for rappelling gear. While the route rates a modest 5.8, the star rating is on the lower side—closer to 1.7 according to user feedback—reflecting a climb that’s less about sustained difficulty and more about technical movement and placement accuracy in a somewhat isolated corner of the crag.
Protection calls for a solid rack of wires and cams up to a #4 Friend, offering ample security through tricky placements on the groove and cracks. The rock features sound edges but requires solid pro judgment, particularly on the initial moves from the boulder and through the jam crack. EB Jeebies is an ideal choice for those wanting a short, sharp trad test with a quiet atmosphere tucked into the iconic landscape of Estes Park Valley.
Expect a mix of tactile holds, gritty rock textures, and the whisper of wind brushing over the exposed ridge. The climb offers a satisfying combination of physical tussles and mental pacing within one of Colorado's notable climbing zones, making EB Jeebies a rewarding stop for trad climbers ready to engage with the detail and precision that trad routes demand.
Watch for sharp edges on the initial boulder moves and maintain careful foot placements on the grippy left wall. The short descent scramble is straightforward but stay aware of loose rock near the top. Avoid climbing in wet or icy conditions on this NW face to prevent slips.
Approach early to benefit from the persistent shade on the NW face.
Bring a full rack focused on smaller cams and wires up to #4 size for the best protection.
Scramble off to the southeast at the top to avoid the need for ropes or rappel.
Check rock quality on initial moves off the boulder—some edges feel sharp but solid.
Wires and cams up to a #4 Friend are essential for securing placements on the groove and jam cracks that dominate the route.
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