5.9 PG13, Trad
McQuirks Mountain
Canada
"Eat Moe delivers two gripping pitches on Moe Wall, blending easy gear placements with a sharp crux above the belay ledge. It’s a must-try trad climb for those seeking well-protected moves and a taste of New Brunswick’s wilderness climbing."
Eat Moe offers a compelling trad climbing experience on the rugged face of Moe Wall, situated within the wild beauty of McQuirks Mountain, New Brunswick. This two-pitch route stretches 175 feet across solid stone, combining straightforward crack placements with pockets of technical moves that demand focus and finesse. The first pitch stands out as some of the most enjoyable lower-wall climbing in the area—an accessible but engaging sequence equipped with plentiful protection opportunities. Climbers will appreciate the balance of steady crack jams and smooth face holds, set against a backdrop of sweeping views that hint at the remoteness of this Canadian wilderness.
Once you reach the belay ledge, the intensity shifts. The second pitch holds the route’s crux shortly beyond the anchor point, where protection thins and movements sharply test technique and mental grit. Moves here require calculated footwork and body positioning, as gear placements appear just below the hardest sections, making it necessary to trust your ability and notes from the pitch below. Expect a runout that will push you to stay sharp before the final stretch to the summit. Though not excessively long, this pitch demands respect and delivers an adrenaline-spiked finale.
Preparation is key. A single rack ranging to 3-inch cams will cover all protection needs comfortably, and the presence of a bolted rappel station on the ledge after pitch one simplifies descent logistics. The route’s solid rock and well-protected first pitch make it a prime choice for climbers stepping into more adventurous multi-pitch trad with a manageable risk factor. However, the upper pitch’s tricky sections reward those who bring patience and precision.
Accessing Moe Wall involves a moderate approach through forested trails peppered with loose scree patches, taking approximately 30 to 45 minutes from the nearest parking area near McQuirks Mountain trailhead. The terrain here is typical for the region, with moss-draped boulders and whispering pines accompanying your journey to the base. Timing climbs for mid-spring through early fall offers the most stable conditions, with the wall leaning eastward to catch morning light before shading over in the afternoon.
Climbers venturing out should pack boots with good grip for the approach, layer appropriately for rapid weather changes, and bring ample water since natural sources are scarce near the base. The route’s combination of approachable first pitch and challenging second pitch makes Eat Moe an ideal outing for trad climbers ready to test their skills without venturing into extreme terrain or high-altitude exposure. Expect a climb that engages both mind and body, rewarding careful protection placement and smooth execution with satisfying exposure and a scenic alpine environment.
The upper pitch features some runout sections above gear placements, so staying focused during the crux moves is crucial. Loose rock can be present near the approach trail, and the ledge rappel station requires secure anchor evaluation before descending.
Start climbs early in the day to take advantage of morning sun on the east-facing wall.
Wear sturdy shoes with good traction for the mixed terrain approach through forest and loose scree.
Be prepared for limited natural water sources; pack adequate hydration.
Expect a runout on pitch two crux—place gear carefully and remain mentally prepared.
Bring a single rack up to 3 inches for reliable protection throughout the route. A bolted rappel station sits on a ledge after pitch one, easing retreat or descent.
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