"Easy Street is a moderate trad and sport climb blending wide cracks and technical moves across 100 feet of sandstone. Its mix of well-protected 5.8 sections and accessible climbing make it an ideal introduction to trad gear placement within the stunning South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon."
Easy Street offers a straightforward yet engaging 100-foot climb that delivers just the right blend of technical moves and accessible crack climbing on Colorado’s Mushroom Massif. Located in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, this mostly moderate 5.4 to 5.7 route features a handful of well-protected 5.8 moves that punctuate an otherwise smooth ascent. The climb opens on a wide crack that narrows progressively, guiding you from the base up and left, demanding calculated placements and steady hand jams. As the crack fades, you transition onto a short seam with ample room for gear placements, before shifting left toward the first bolt, a reliable piece of security in this mixed trad and sport line. From here, a ledge offers a brief respite, where the route veers left into a cleaner crack system that guides you toward the anchor.
Protection relies primarily on an Alien rack complemented by nuts and larger cams for the lower wide crack sections. Climbers will find the purple and blue Aliens particularly critical for the smaller, thinner cracks above the bolts, demanding finesse and confidence in placing micro cams. The final moves require a strong reach to secure a solid jug, a fitting reward for the technical footwork and balance needed below. Though some may find these upper moves a touch sketchy due to less-than-ideal micro cam placements, experience with 5.8 trad routes will see you through without much hesitation.
The approach to Mushroom Massif is approachable yet rewarding, with the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon providing a quiet, natural setting defined by rugged sandstone and sweeping canyon views. This route’s moderate grade and mixed protection style make it a perfect training ground for climbers transitioning from sport to trad, or those looking for an accessible line that challenges technique without overwhelming difficulty.
Plan to bring a full rack of cams including several micro sizes, and nuts to ensure you can protect the crack system effectively. Weather is generally stable through late spring and early fall, and climbing in the morning hours is ideal to avoid afternoon sun and maintain cooler rock temperatures. The descent involves rappelling from bolted anchors at the top—double-check your anchors and ropes before committing to the rappel. Easy Street’s straightforward nature, combined with its moderate challenges and solid protection, earns its place as a well-loved route in the St. Vrain Canyons, suitable for committed beginners and experienced climbers alike seeking a taste of quality Colorado trad climbing.
Micro cam placements above the second bolt can feel marginal and require solid gear judgment. The upper moves demand calm footing and precise protection placement to avoid any runouts on thinner cracks.
Approach via the South Fork trailhead; plan for about 20 minutes hike on moderately rugged terrain.
Bring a full set of nuts and a range of cams, focusing on micro sizes for thin cracks.
Climb early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on exposed sandstone.
Double-check rope and anchors before rappelling down; fixed bolts and anchors are reliable but always inspect.
A rack of Aliens—especially purple and blue micro cams—is essential for protecting the upper cracks above bolts. Bring nuts and larger cams for the wide lower crack, with an extra black Alien and an additional purple Alien advised for tricky placements. The route features two bolts and rappelling anchors at the top.
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