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Easy Peasy at The Hex Wall

Welsford, Canada
corner crack
approachable
short route
small gear
granite
beginner trad
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Easy Peasy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Easy Peasy offers a compact, beginner-friendly climb on The Hex Wall’s far side corner. This short trad route delivers straightforward protection and mellow moves beneath a watching fir, making it an ideal introduction to trad climbing in New Brunswick’s rugged setting."

Easy Peasy at The Hex Wall

Set against the rugged backdrop of The Hex Wall in Eagle Rock, New Brunswick, Easy Peasy offers a brief but satisfying introduction to traditional climbing on solid granite. This 25-foot route rises steadily up a clean corner on the far side of the wall, culminating near a towering fir that keeps watch over the climb. The granite feels cool beneath your fingertips, and the faint scent of pine drifts down from the tree, grounding you in this peaceful slice of the Canadian wilderness. The climb is approachable yet engaging, ideal for climbers looking to develop trad skills without the pressure of steep or exposed terrain.

The line is straightforward—slick enough to require focus but forgiving enough to encourage confident footwork and smooth rope management. Protection placements favor small gear, making it important to bring a well-rounded small rack to safeguard your moves. The rock offers good features to clip and rest, reducing anxiety and letting you enjoy the tactile interaction with the stone. Because the route has just one pitch, it’s a perfect quick outing or a warm-up for a larger adventure on neighboring walls.

Approach is simple with a short walk from the parking area at Eagle Rock, threading through mixed forest trails where you might hear the quiet stir of wildlife and the occasional creak of ancient trees. This accessibility means you can be on the rock within minutes of arrival, which is great for squeezing in some climbing around other outdoor plans.

Given its easiness at 5.2, Easy Peasy appeals especially to beginners sharpening trad skills or anyone wanting a low-stress climb to savor the environment. The modest length and gentle angle make it perfect for refining rack management and movement techniques. Plan your climb during late spring to early fall when the wall basks in midday sun but still offers cool shade beneath the fir. Avoid wetter seasons to keep friction optimal and to protect the rock’s integrity.

In preparation, pack footwear that balances grip with support, and don’t forget a water bottle to stay hydrated. With one pitch, the descent is straightforward: a short downclimb back to the trailhead offers an unhurried return, perfect for lingering in the calm atmosphere of The Hex Wall.

Easy Peasy is a subtle reminder that even the simplest climbs carry the promise of adventure, offering a quiet moment where climber and nature connect through steady rhythm and precise movement. Whether you’re stepping onto trad protection for the first time or looking for a reliable, no-frills climb in New Brunswick, this route brings clear, practical reward without unnecessary fuss.

Climber Safety

While the anchor areas are generally stable, watch for loose vegetation near the fir tree at the top. Also, be mindful of slippery spots when the rock is damp, especially during or after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Bring sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging capabilities.

Plan for early morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid mid-summer heat.

Check weather before your trip — wet granite significantly lowers friction.

Hydrate well despite the short approach; the area’s humidity can sneak up on you.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.2
Quality
Consensus:The 5.2 rating reflects an easy climb where technique outweighs physical challenge. The line is straightforward with no crux, making it reliably soft but a great platform for new trad climbers to build confidence on natural protection.

Gear Requirements

A small rack is sufficient for this route, with placements that favor nuts and small cams. Carrying micro cams will help secure tricky spots near the corner base.

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Tags

corner crack
approachable
short route
small gear
granite
beginner trad