"Easy On winds up a right-leaning crack merging with Six Toe Crack in Castle Crags. This one-pitch trad route challenges with airy moves above gear and an off-width finish familiar from Six Toe, perfect for climbers ready to push their trad skills."
Easy On presents a focused, engaging trad climb carved into the rugged features of Six Toe Rock, set in the wild expanse of Castle Crags, Northeast California. This route follows a prominent right-leaning crack that intersects with the renowned Six Toe Crack halfway up, delivering a straightforward yet thought-provoking challenge. Though originally divided into two pitches—with the first finishing at a cluster of unreliable old bolts—most climbers prefer to tackle it in a single, continuous 60-meter push to maintain rhythm and flow.
The climb unfolds with a technical edge, inviting you into a series of moves that climb just beyond comfortable protection zones, demanding commitment balanced with precise gear placement. The crux involves an off-width section familiar to those who know Six Toe Crack, rewarding climbers who bring the right rack with a satisfying groove to root into. The rock itself feels solid, but the aged hardware reminds you to trust your own protection placements over obsolete bolts.
Castle Crags’ sharp granite walls rise above sprawling forests, where whispers of pine and cedar accompany your ascent. The sun traces arcs across the sky, warming sections of the wall while shadows offer cooling relief, shaping the climb’s rhythm from start to finish. Fresh air fills the lungs, and distant wind stirs the treetops below, while your fingers engage the textured granite, every jam and smear reinforcing the elemental dialogue between climber and stone.
Planning your trip here requires awareness of the remoteness—access trails are well-marked but demand a steady approach through mixed terrain. A full rack, including larger cams up to a size 4, is essential to protect the off-width and adjacent crack systems safely. Timing your climb in the late spring through early fall yields optimal conditions; the face receives sunlight through mid-day, with afternoon shade cooling the upper sections.
Easy On is well suited to climbers comfortable with moderate exposure and capable traditional gear placement. Be ready for a move or two that pull you slightly above your last anchored piece, testing your nerve and technique. After the climb, descent can be managed with a single rappel or careful downclimb, so be sure to review your anchors and stay alert for loose rock or uneven footing.
Whether you're polishing your trad skills or craving a new line with character and flowing movement on solid granite, Easy On offers a rewarding, practical adventure within the wild beauty of Castle Crags.
Avoid using old bolts for protection due to questionable integrity. The airy moves above gear require confidence and solid placements. The descent involves a single rappel where anchors may be sparse; double-check all gear and remain vigilant of loose rock on the downclimb.
Bring a full rack including large cams, particularly a #4 cam for the off-width.
Plan to climb in one continuous pitch on a 60m rope to avoid awkward bolt belays.
Start early to benefit from morning sun but expect afternoon shading up on the route.
Check anchor points carefully before rappelling; descent requires single 60m rappel or cautious downclimb.
Standard trad rack with cams up to size 4 is essential, especially for the off-width section on Six Toe. Avoid relying on old bolts; prioritize solid gear placements throughout.
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