HomeClimbingEasy Moss

Easy Moss: A Moss-Covered Trad Challenge at Lover's Leap

Tahoma, California United States
moss-covered
runout
wide crack
chimney
exposed traverse
traditional protection
multi-pitch
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Easy Moss
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Easy Moss is a two-pitch trad climb at Lover's Leap that pushes climbers across mossy cracks and exposed face traverses. Its unique line demands solid trad skills and offers an uncommon Sierra experience rarely shared with polished rock."

Easy Moss: A Moss-Covered Trad Challenge at Lover's Leap

Easy Moss carves out a distinct path on the Lower Buttress of Lover's Leap, standing apart from its neighbor, For Real Crack, by veering left across a rugged, moss-slick face. This route demands more than just physical strength; it calls for patience and a steady nerve, as you navigate moss-covered holds that test your trust in the rock and your gear. The climb unfolds through two pitches totaling 400 feet, blending exposed wide cracks with horizontal dikes and narrow chimneys that force creative route-finding and careful protection placement.

Your journey begins on an unprotected face, where careful footwork is essential to reach a knob that offers the first real chance to set gear—often over ten feet high, requiring confidence and precise placement. From this anchor, a mossy crack beckons upward, its surface alive with green, deceptive in texture and offering a subtle test of grip and focus. Eventually, this crack thins out, pushing the climber toward a horizontal band of dikes. These dikes, resembling natural holds carved into the stone, serve as jugs to launch a leftward traverse to another crack system.

The second pitch continues with equal parts strategy and grit. Emerging from a squeeze chimney, climbers find themselves on ledges where the rock lightens in color, guiding them toward the finish. Protection here becomes a series of delicate placements—small cams and nuts must be searched for and trusted, while boulders atop the route provide the framework for a creative belay.

Gear up with doubles in cams up to 3 inches, a single 4-inch cam, a full set of nuts, and an unexpected but handy set of gardening gloves for handling moss and rough holds. Familiarity with traditional protection skills is essential, as the route offers limited fixed gear and demands confident placement, especially on exposed sections above the initial knob.

Located in the high Sierra near Highway 50, Lover's Leap offers an alpine escape with granite walls that reach skyward under open blue skies. While Easy Moss may trail in popularity compared to neighboring lines, its moss-covered difficulties and runout moments offer a distinctive experience that rewards persistence, attention to detail, and a careful approach. Climbers should consider timing their ascent for early morning or late afternoon to take advantage of cooler temperatures and reduced sun exposure on this west-facing buttress.

Approaching the route demands a steady hike across rocky terrain, with the access involving off-trail scrambling and careful navigation to the base. The descent involves downclimbing and careful route-finding to avoid loose rock, making a thorough review of approach and exit plans a must before committing to the climb.

Easy Moss invites those willing to engage with its natural quirks: moss that challenges your grip, cracks that defy straightforward movement, and protection placements that require thought and skill. For climbers looking to test their mettle on a less polished, truly traditional Sierra granite climb, Easy Moss offers both a fun challenge and a memorable encounter with Lover's Leap’s rugged character.

Climber Safety

Watch your feet carefully on moss-covered sections as the rock can be slick, especially in warmth. Protection is limited early on, with first gear placements over ten feet high—failing to secure these can spell trouble. The chimney section requires attentive belaying and solid chimney technique. Also, test all holds before weighting them due to moss concealment.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun and moss slipperiness from heat.

Practice placing pro high off the deck; initial placements can be intimidating.

Bring gloves or gardening gloves to navigate moss-covered holds safely.

Scout the descent beforehand; downclimbing involves loose rock and requires attention.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 R, Easy Moss carries a runout feel that adds a mental edge beyond the grade. The moss underfoot and on holds softens friction, demanding deliberate footwork. While the technical moves are straightforward, protection can be sparse or high, sharpening the focus required. Climbers familiar with Lover's Leap’s classic trad routes will find the rating appropriate with an extra mental component due to the sparse gear and moss.

Gear Requirements

Bring doubles of cams up to 3 inches and a single 4-inch cam. A full set of nuts is necessary, along with gloves to handle moss and keep secure holds. Protection placements can be sparse and high off the ground, so be prepared for runouts and carefully placed gear.

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Tags

moss-covered
runout
wide crack
chimney
exposed traverse
traditional protection
multi-pitch