HomeClimbingEasy Dude?

Easy Dude? A Classic Trad Crack on Little Dude

Golden, Colorado United States
crack climbing
single pitch
trad gear
slab section
Golden Gate Canyon
PG13 protection
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Easy Dude?
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Easy Dude? carves a single, satisfying pitch along the right side of Little Dude, blending hands-to-fist crack climbing with a challenging mid-route sequence. This trad classic offers three distinct finish options for climbers ready to engage both body and gear skill in Golden’s rugged terrain."

Easy Dude? A Classic Trad Crack on Little Dude

Perched on the right flank of Little Dude within Golden Gate Canyon State Park, 'Easy Dude?' offers a sharp, focused outing for trad climbers ready to test their finesse on a single pitch. The climb begins about twenty feet above the ground on a ledge system accessible via a short scramble from the right or a more delicate climbing approach from the left, setting the tone for an engaging ascent. From this perch, the route thrusts you into a hands-to-fist crack reminiscent of the timeless Lumpy climb—solid, straightforward, but with a demanding middle section that rewards both technique and calm.

As the crack dissipates, climbers face their first decision point. The most straightforward finish arcs right, linking into the last bolt and anchor of the neighboring Hummingbird Rodeo before angling up and left to Easy Dude’s anchors. For those seeking more challenge, a subtle leftward move opens a balancied stretch above a slab, where protection placement becomes a thoughtful exercise in patience and precision, with a crucial gear spot about 12 to 14 feet above the initial ledge guarding the crux. The third option involves a delicate traverse left on polished, sloping holds leading to an upward move that, once surmounted, eases back into moderate climbing.

Gear choices lean heavily on Camalots ranging from #0.75 up to #4, ensuring secure placements along fissures and under sloping feet. Anchors are fixed with a two-bolt station, providing solid top-out security. Although manageable, the 5.9 PG13 rating reflects the route’s physical punch combined with protection that demands respect and sharp attention. This line is best approached with focused intent and mental steadiness.

Golden Gate Canyon itself holds a refined ruggedness, less crowded but no less rewarding. The exposure to seasonal elements is moderate, with northern aspects offering shade in the warmer months. Access is straightforward, but climbers should prepare for a brief off-trail scramble. Footwear with sticky rubber and good edging capability is recommended, as the slab sequences demand precise footwork.

In sum, Easy Dude? is a compelling introduction to Golden’s classic trad climbs: concise, direct, and laced with just enough trickiness to keep even experienced climbers engaged. It’s a climb where nature’s raw edges meet thoughtful movement—a perfect day’s mission for those eager to connect with Little Dude’s granite character while sharpening their crack skills.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for slab sections with sparse protection near the mid-route traverse—proforms are limited and falls could be risky. The ledge start requires confident scrambling or easy climbing to reach safely. Seasonal rock conditions can shift; verify quality especially after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start from the ledge roughly 20 feet up, accessed by a scramble on the right or climbing approach on the left.

Focus on deliberate gear placements in the middle crux section, especially around 12-14 feet above the ledge.

Bring sticky rubber shoes for precise footwork on slabby sections.

Plan climbs during cooler parts of the day to avoid slab overheating and maximize grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade accurately reflects Easy Dude?’s moderate technical difficulty paired with protection that requires thoughtful placement, especially in the middle section. While the overall moves feel solid and accessible for a 5.9, the limited gear options on a few delicate sections bump the seriousness, resulting in a climb that rewards careful planning and respect for your pro.

Gear Requirements

Requires a set of Camalots from #0.75 through #4 for effective protection; the route includes a two-bolt anchor at the top.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
trad gear
slab section
Golden Gate Canyon
PG13 protection