"East Side Daze is a precise 90-foot sport climb near Mammoth Lakes that blends steep, technical moves with slab mastery. This pitch challenges your balance and power without a long approach, making it an ideal climb for focused training and approachable adventure."
East Side Daze offers a focused 90-foot route that challenges climbers right out of the gate with a series of demanding moves on a compact face. Beginning with a steep, technical start, the climb asks you to summon precise footwork and body tension immediately. Shortly after the second bolt, a bush to your side acts almost like a quiet witness as you swing right and tackle a steep bulge that tests your commitment and strength. Beyond this, the climb eases into a slab where the angle shifts, and the holds become more positive, beckoning you upward with a mixture of balance and controlled grace. The slab trends gently rightward, pulling you toward the anchors, but be ready—another section of increased steepness introduces a final bout of resistance before the climb opens up to easy, positive holds. The route’s 5.9 rating feels consistent with its well-defined cruxes, delivering a satisfying blend of technical bouldering and endurance climbing within a single pitch.
Located within the high desert edge of California’s Sierra Eastside near Mammoth Lakes, East Side Daze sits in a compact, easily accessible climbing area known as Al's Garage. The approach is straightforward, leaving ample energy for the climb itself. Bolted with eight fixed points and finished with two open-shut anchors, this sport climb prioritizes safety while still rewarding climbers who trust their movement and gear placements. The rock is solid, yet the granite’s texture demands respect for your shoes and hands.
Planning your ascent here means arriving with steady confidence in your 5.9 skills and considering the rock’s sun exposure, which can heat up quickly in the afternoon. Early morning or late afternoon sessions offer cooler conditions and softer lighting that reveal the rock’s subtle micro-features essential for the harder moves. The area does not require extensive travel—a quick hike from the parking area leads you through mixed terrain, transitioning from sandy patches dotted with resilient shrubs to the stoniest slabs quieter walls are known for.
This route stands out for climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing ability in a controlled environment that still maintains outdoor grit. It's especially suitable for those comfortable with overhanging bulges and transitioning smoothly to slab climbing, making for a balanced test of both physicality and finesse. Whether you’re working this route as part of a fuller day of cragging or seeking a focused 5.9 challenge without the need for a long approach or complex logistics, East Side Daze strikes a solid chord.
For gear, eight fixed bolts ensure protection along the way, but double-check the condition of the open-shut anchors at the top. Bring shoes with sticky rubber, stick to light chalk to improve grip, and consider finger tape if you have sensitive skin for the bulge. Hydration is key here—carry enough water for the approach and the climb, as the dry air and light exposure can dehydrate quickly. Lastly, check local weather, as sudden winds from the Sierra crest can change conditions rapidly. This climb delivers a pure sport experience: straightforward, demanding, and rewarding on granite that has character and challenge in equal measure.
While protection is reliable, the open-shut anchors at the top require scrutiny before use. The steep bulge features sharp holds that can scrape hands and fingers. The slab sections may become slick in direct sun or after rain, so plan your climb when the rock is dry and cool.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and softened holds.
Bring plenty of water for the short but dry approach and climb.
Check anchor condition before clipping for rappel or lowering.
Wear tape if you have sensitive skin for the sharp bulge moves.
The route is protected by eight fixed bolts and finishes on two open shut anchors. Bring sticky shoes and chalk for grip, and inspect anchors before descending.
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