HomeClimbingEast Peak of Gothics - North East Ridge

East Peak of Gothics - North East Ridge

Golden, Canada
exposed slab
chimney
alpine snow slope
piton protection
multi-pitch trad
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
East Peak of Gothics - North East Ridge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A modest alpine trad climb on Gothics’ East Peak offers a blend of snow slopes, exposed slab traverses, and straightforward chimney sections. Perfectly suited to climbers seeking a less-traveled summit with commanding views and manageable technical challenges."

East Peak of Gothics - North East Ridge

Standing at the gateway of the East Peak of Gothics via its North East Ridge, you're invited into a climb that blends straightforward alpine challenges with impressive panoramic rewards. This modest route starts at the col connecting Pioneer and Gothics, where a typically snow-blanketed slope guides you upward. Depending on the season, this slope shifts from soft snow to hard ice or exposed rock slabs, demanding attentiveness as you ascend. The climb’s defining moment arrives at a prominent rock step—an exposed, technical pitch that tests your commitment and skill. Here, the original route leads you across a slab to an obvious crack and chimney system, providing an engaging mix of moderate trad climbing that climbers meet with careful footwork and steady protection placements.

This climb’s true appeal is its blend of accessible alpine climbing and the vast 360-degree views it offers from the summit. The rock step is where the mountain asserts itself, daring you to negotiate exposure with just a few pieces of gear, including a short Lost Arrow piton or knifeblade and a small rack of nuts and cams. Variations on the climb allow you to tailor your experience, whether tackling the crack chimney directly or opting for a traversing face climb rated slightly harder. The "West Bypass" alternative adds a rope-consuming traverse followed by a chimney ascent, injecting variety and technical interest.

Approach wise, the route is best combined with an ascent of Pioneer, creating a fulfilling day in the Selkirk Mountains. The trail to the col is rugged but manageable, weaving through alpine rock and patchy snowfields. Timing your climb when the snow clears or softens makes a significant difference in both safety and speed. As an alpine climb, it’s vital to carry the right gear to protect the exposed traverse and chimney sections, while watching for loose rock and shifting weather.

The East Peak's North East Ridge stands as a prime example of traditional alpine climbs that reward preparation and exposure to wild mountain environments. The area offers a rugged wilderness experience with minimal crowding, providing a quiet but thrilling escape. As you reach the summit, the air opens to reveal sprawling mountain ranges folded into the horizon, the kind of view that stays with you long after the climb is done. Be ready to move confidently, respect the shifting conditions, and embrace the mountain’s honest challenge.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the slab traverse—it can be icy or slick depending on season, and protection is sparse. The rock step demands solid footing and trust in gear placements; errant slips here could lead to serious falls. Weather can change quickly above the col, so monitor conditions closely.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Combine this route with the Pioneer ascent for a fulfilling day in the Adamants.

Check recent weather reports to gauge snow stability on the slope and slab.

Protect the exposed slab traverse carefully; short runners and thin protection are critical.

Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Selkirk alpine zones.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 PG13 rating is approachable for climbers familiar with basic alpine trad techniques, but the exposure and protection challenges add a subtle complexity. The grade is considered soft for the technical moves but the feeling of exposure bumps the mental challenge. Climbers experienced with moderate trad routes in alpine settings, such as nearby classics in the Selkirks, will find this a refreshing and manageable test.

Gear Requirements

Bring a short Lost Arrow or knifeblade piton for key placements, along with a small set of nuts and cams to protect the crack and chimney sections. Alpine boots with crampons may be necessary depending on snow and ice conditions.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of East Peak of Gothics - North East Ridge and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

exposed slab
chimney
alpine snow slope
piton protection
multi-pitch trad