5.10a PG13, Trad
Truckee
California ,United States
"Earth Girls Are Easy challenges with thin, technical cracks and a distinctive hanging flake that demands careful gear placement. This single 60-foot pitch at Twin Crags blends precise trad moves with practical anchor options for a focused climbing experience."
Earth Girls Are Easy offers a focused, technical trad climb that invites those eager to test their crack skills on authentic granite in the Truckee River Canyon. This single-pitch route stretches 60 feet along a smooth rock face, beginning with thin double cracks that demand precise finger and hand jams before transitioning into a striking hanging flake. The flake feels slightly hollow beneath your hands, requiring thoughtful gear placements and respect for its subtle instability. Care is crucial when setting protection behind this section, and the climb’s exposure keeps you alert but fully engaged with the rock.
The route rewards steady footing and calm judgment, with a finish best reached by heading right toward the secure anchors of the adjacent "Made Of Silk" climb. These independent bolts provide dependable top-out options for safe descent and serve as a reliable fallback. Situated within Twin Crags, Earth Girls Are Easy stands among pockets of granite etched by nature’s cracks, offering a clean and quiet environment away from crowded crags.
Approach is straightforward, strolling in from parking near the Truckee River Canyon with about 15 minutes on foot via well-marked trails through open pine and juniper. The route favors early to mid-morning climbing before the sun climbs high enough to bake the exposed rock face, especially in summer months. Wearing sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber complements the crack climbing technique required to bypass the more delicate flake section.
Gear for this climb should include a set of cams covering sizes up to 2 inches—be mindful that the flake’s hollow quality demands extra attention when placing gear; runners or longer slings can help smooth rope drag. Although the route features fixed bolt anchors with hangers, carrying a versatile rack enables safe and confident progression. Earth Girls Are Easy is a satisfying challenge for trad climbers who appreciate tight crack sequences combined with subtle technical moves, all wrapped in a compact and approachable pitch.
Weather can swing quickly here, so hydration and sun protection are essential. Because the route is a bit exposed, wind can add chill effects even on warm days. Solo climbers should be particularly cautious about anchor quality, and groups will find sufficient space for belays while savoring the quiet canyon surroundings. Overall, Earth Girls Are Easy stands as a precise trad test piece in Northern California, balancing thrill with measured risk in one carefully crafted pitch.
The hollow nature of the hanging flake means placing gear behind it requires careful testing—avoid trusting gear fully embedded in the flake. Anchors are reliable but double-check all bolts before trusting them for top-rope or rap. The approach trail crosses exposed sections; be prepared for sudden winds and keep hydrated.
Start early to avoid intense midday heat on exposed granite.
Check flake stability gently before committing your full weight.
Use sticky rubber shoes to maintain friction on smooth crack edges.
Approach via Truckee River Trail; expect a 15-minute walk through open pine terrain.
Rack up to 2-inch cams is essential. The hanging flake requires extra care when placing protection; consider extending placements with runners or long slings to reduce drag. Independent bolt anchors with hangers secure the top-out, or opt for the chain anchors on the ‘Made Of Silk’ route.
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