"Early Warning offers a dynamic 60-foot sport climb on Half & Half Crag, challenging climbers with a standout bulge and intricate face climbing. Precise technique and steady protection make it a rewarding test for intermediate climbers in an accessible Colorado setting."
Early Warning presents a sharp, focused sport climb situated within the rugged contours of Half & Half Crag, offering a solid, rewarding 60-foot pitch that combines technical face climbing with well-protected bolts. From the first move, you tackle the route’s signature bulge on the right, a compact but demanding obstacle that challenges balance and body positioning before easing onto a more open face. The climb unfolds as you move left and up through a series of textured features—cracks carve their way into the stone, pockets invite careful fingertip placements, and crimps demand precise grip. The bolt line guides you steadily, highlighting the route’s thoughtful design to keep you both challenged and secure.
The route is anchored at the top by a two-bolt setup complete with chains and biners, allowing a straightforward rappel or an anchored top-rope setup. Early Warning’s face holds a gritty texture characteristic of the local sandstone, offering enough friction for confident footwork even when the rock leans into delicate maneuvers. The approach delivers easy access from Colorado Highway 7, threading through well-trodden paths flanked by pine and aspen trees, setting you up for a climb where nature’s calm contrasts with the focused intensity on the wall.
Expect an environment where the rock seems to respond to your touch—cracks feeling like careful breaths, pockets inviting moments of pause, and crimps pulling you upwards as if the formation itself is nudging you forward. The crag’s southeast-facing aspect means morning to midday sun hits steadily, warming the wall for optimal friction and comfort across spring through fall. Though the climb is measured at 5.9—moderate by sport climbing standards—the sustained nature of the route and the initial bulge present a modest pump. Climbers should prepare for precise foot placements and attentive clipping, particularly in the bulge.
Gear-wise, seven bolts provide confidence, but climbers should stay focused on maintaining smooth, calculated movements; the protection is reliable but spacing tests trust and rock feel. Early Warning is ideal for climbers stretching their limits from 5.8 to 5.10, offering a rewarding introduction to sustained face climbing punctuated by engaging technical sequences. The nearby Estes Park town provides excellent staging for gear, snacks, and an after-climb reprieve.
Safety notes include being mindful not to stray left onto the small gully near the top—this section is loose and poorly protected. The approach trail remains dry and manageable for most hikers but prepare for some uneven footing and minor scrambling to reach the base. A solid pair of climbing shoes with sticky rubber and good edging capability will serve best, along with hydration for warm days. With the right preparation, Early Warning delivers a compelling hour of climbing that sharpens technique while immersing you in Colorado’s dramatic rock landscapes.
Steer clear of the loose gully feature on the upper left section of the climb, as it is neither bolted nor stable. Maintain careful footwork especially after the bulge, as the rock can become sharp and the terrain uneven near the top.
Start early to avoid the midday heat from the southeast-facing wall.
Avoid moving left at the top into the small gully; it's loose and unprotected.
Wear shoes with excellent edge grip to handle the crimps and pockets effectively.
Keep hydrated—the approach has some uneven terrain and light scrambling.
Seven bolts protect the route evenly, finishing with a two-bolt anchor featuring chains and biners. A standard sport rack and sticky shoes with precise edging work best to navigate the bulge and face transitions.
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