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E. B. Bon Homme at Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms, California United States
corner crack
face climbing
desert
single pitch
standard rack
5.9 trad
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
E. B. Bon Homme
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"E. B. Bon Homme offers a gritty, engaging 50-foot trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks. A blend of corner jams, steep face climbing, and a crack finish makes it a concise and satisfying route for those sharpening their trad skills."

E. B. Bon Homme at Joshua Tree National Park

E. B. Bon Homme offers a focused, rewarding climb in the rugged landscape of Joshua Tree National Park’s Wonderland of Rocks. This single-pitch trad route stretches roughly 50 feet, carving its way up a corner that demands a blend of steady technique and a touch of grit. The climb starts with a welcoming corner, where your hands and feet find purchase on textured stone, guided by jagged edges that feel alive under your fingertips. The rock here tells a story with its roughness, inviting you to lean into each move and engage with the route's physicality.

Midway, the corner gives way to a steeper face, testing your balance and body positioning. This section isn’t just about strength but rhythm—a dance between careful foot placements and graceful reaches. The stone here catches the sunlight, adding warmth and a rough brush of friction that encourages confident footwork. As you near the top, the climb transitions into a crack finish, a classic Joshua Tree flavor that demands precise jam techniques and steady movement upwards. Protect yourself well here, as the crack invites standard trad gear placements but calls for careful judgment over your nuts and cams.

The approach to E. B. Bon Homme is straightforward, tracing through characteristic Joshua Tree desert terrain dotted with granite boulders and desert flora. The path leading to the base is firm, marked by spiky yuccas and occasional creosote bushes, and takes about 15 minutes to reach from the established trailhead. The warm desert air hums with cicada calls in the heat of the day, so early starts are wise to enjoy cooler conditions and softer shadows. Late afternoon offers mellow sun angles, creating a welcome reprieve from intense midday heat.

Carrying a standard rack is recommended—cams ranging from small to medium sizes will secure well in the crack systems, while nuts cover the lower corner stances. The rock’s texture is generally solid, but keep an eye out for any sharp edges that could impact your rope. The route’s 5.9 rating is approachable for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen their crack and face climbing skills; while the grade sits firmly at the sweet spot of challenge and fun, the steeper face introduces a subtle crux that may test your composure under pressure.

E. B. Bon Homme exemplifies the spirit of Joshua Tree climbing—direct, gritty, and deeply connected to the desert’s raw beauty. Whether you’re refining your crack jams or chasing consistent friction on textured faces, this route delivers a concise outing rich with sensory engagement and practical flow. No frills, just pure climbing with the desert wind wiping across your back as the rock whispers its age-old secrets. Preparation should include plenty of water, sturdy shoes designed for friction, and sun protection—a reminder that the desert, while inspiring, demands respect.

When it's time to descend, a short walk-off scramble leads you safely back to the trailhead, allowing you to savor the climb one last time in the panoramic view behind you. E. B. Bon Homme is a straightforward, rewarding route that invites both contemplation and action, a perfect slice of Joshua Tree climbing culture for those ready to embrace the desert’s granite playground.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally solid on this route, several placements in the crack require careful gear sizing to avoid rope drag or false security. The desert environment demands sun protection and awareness of loose rock on the approach trail.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the peak desert heat and enjoy firmer rock friction.

Use moderate-sized cams for reliable placements in the crack finish.

Carry ample water; Joshua Tree’s dry environment quickly drains hydration.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to maximize grip on textured desert granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, this route strikes a balance between approachable and bold. The steep face section introduces a crux that pushes the grade just above a mellow 5.8, adding intensity without overwhelming intermediate climbers. Compared to other Joshua Tree climbs, E. B. Bon Homme feels solid and straightforward, with consistent cracking opportunities that reward practiced jam skills.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended, including nuts and cams suitable for crack placements with solid protection opportunities throughout the corner and crack sections.

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Tags

corner crack
face climbing
desert
single pitch
standard rack
5.9 trad