"Dusty Eyes is a classic single-pitch trad climb in the heart of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. Featuring a left-leaning crack with comfortable protection and a moderate 5.4 rating, it’s an excellent choice for those sharpening crack skills or seeking a straightforward introduction to traditional climbing."
Dusty Eyes offers a straightforward, approachable climb for those seeking a reliable trad experience within one of British Columbia’s most celebrated climbing hubs. Positioned just above the stacked flakes at the base of the Smoke Bluffs wall, this left-leaning crack system beckons climbers to engage with clean, moderate terrain that holds both intrigue and safety in balance. The route carves a measured line to the left, following a crack that feels solid under hand and foot, inviting climbers to settle into a rhythm without the chase of high-stakes difficulty.
The 80-foot length fits within a single pitch, making it an ideal introduction to traditional protection for those easing into gear placements or for seasoned climbers seeking a relaxed warm-up. Protection comes from a standard rack with gear sized up to 2 inches, allowing confident placement along the crack’s consistent walls. The presence of a bolted anchor at the summit gives extra reassurance, while the straightforward walk-off descent keeps the exit simple and safe.
Surrounded by the iconic granite features of the Smoke Bluffs, Dusty Eyes captures that rugged spirit of Squamish climbing with a friendly face. The air here carries the faint scent of pine and earth, interrupted by the soft scrape of shoes on rock and distant bird calls—nature’s soundtrack urging every climber upwards and onwards. Though rated a moderate 5.4, this route remains engaging without demanding advanced technical prowess. The crack’s texture and line inspire a tactile conversation between climber and stone, rich with judgement calls on foot placement and hand jamming technique.
Access is straightforward, with well-established trails leading to The Smoke Bluffs climbing zone from Burgers and Fries parking area. Approaches are short and the terrain stable, making this route a reliable choice for those who value efficient time management on a climbing day. Early mornings or late afternoons provide the best light and comfortable temperatures, as the wall faces east, catching the sun in cooler hours but offering shade as the day progresses.
For anyone preparing to experience Dusty Eyes, essential gear includes a rack with cams ranging from small to 2 inches, sticky rubber shoes for crack friction, and a helmet to guard against occasional loose flakes near the approach and anchor. Hydration remains crucial; despite the shaded conditions later in the day, sun exposure at the base can be direct, calling for adequate water and sun protection.
Dusty Eyes doesn’t promise epic exposure or jaw-dropping verticality, but it does offer a solid climb that hones skills, builds confidence, and immerses you in one of North America’s storied granite climbing arenas. Reliable gear placements, a clear path, and an approachable rating make this a perfect stop for climbers mapping their progression through Squamish’s diverse offerings.
While the rock quality is solid, watch for loose flakes near the base and top of the route. Helmet use is advised. The approach trail is stable but can be slippery after rain. Descend carefully by walking off and avoid scrambling on exposed sections without proper footwear.
Approach from Burgers and Fries parking lot; trails are well-marked and take about 15 minutes.
Wear sticky-soled shoes designed for crack climbing to maximize grip and comfort.
Start early in the day for cooler temperatures and better lighting on the east-facing wall.
Bring ample water and sun protection, as the base can get warm in mid-day sun.
A single rack up to 2-inch cams is sufficient for reliable protection. The route features a bolted anchor for secure top-out and requires standard trad gear focused on crack placements.
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