"Dunn’s Dihedral offers a clean two-pitch trad climb on Taylor Canyon’s Upper Wall with solid crack climbing and a key sandy ledge that keeps you focused. A straightforward 5.8 perfect for trad leaders looking for moderate exposure and reliable protection."
Dunn's Dihedral stands as a straightforward but satisfying two-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged Upper Wall of Taylor Canyon near Gunnison, Colorado. From the base, the route presents a commanding dihedral that invites climbers to test hands and feet on classic crack and face holds. Starting with a reach-up move, tall climbers might find an early advantage grabbing good jugs set slightly to the right, but care is needed as sandy, less stable holds lurk beneath the big ledge housing the first pitch’s anchors. This delicate transition forces deliberate movements, grounding climbers in the reality of placing protection and trusting their gear.
On the second pitch, the dihedral reveals its character: an obvious chimney-like corner that demands steady footwork and confident hand jams. The wall here feels alive with subtle texture changes, rough enough to give secure holds but smooth enough to require focus. The hike away at the top offers tempting options—while it’s certainly possible to traverse and catch the start of Sassafras, most find the direct finish on Dunn’s Dihedral a rewarding send.
Taylor Canyon’s Upper Wall provides a quiet setting away from cluttered crags, with clear air carrying the scent of pine and sun-warmed stone. The approach is short, making this a perfect climb for early season outings or afternoon climbs when the sun dips low behind the canyon walls. Its moderate 5.8 rating is accessible to many trad climbers, but the sandy holds near the ledge remind that vigilance beats complacency here.
Climbers should bring a standard rack well-suited for finger to hand-sized placements, as the dihedral accepts gear reliably, and trust in the two-bolt anchors that mark each pitch’s end. The protection is straightforward enough for aspiring trad leaders to practice solid rope management and gear placements without overcomplication.
This climb marries manageable length and challenge with a genuine feeling of exposure and movement that keeps the experience grounded in the thrilling pulse of vertical rock. Dunn’s Dihedral offers a great introduction to Colorado’s rich trad scene, framed by the sage-scented, open landscape of Gunnison’s canyon country. Planning an ascent here means packing a light rack, plenty of water, and patience for moments where sandy holds demand calm, steady execution.
Watch for loose sand on holds below the first pitch's big ledge; test holds carefully to avoid slipping. Additionally, ensure solid placements around this transition area as the protection is critical here. Approach thoughtfully knowing that rock quality varies, and avoid climbing after heavy rains when grip may be compromised.
Tall climbers get an early edge on the first move using the jugs just right of the crack.
Be mindful of sandy holds below the first pitch anchor ledge; test every hold before trusting it.
Consider climbing early morning or late afternoon to avoid direct midday sun on the Upper Wall.
Don’t rush the second pitch dihedral—steady foot jams and controlled movement keep energy efficient.
Standard trad rack works best here, with placements mostly in finger-to-hand sized cracks. Bring cams and nuts to cover the dihedral's length, plus two quickdraws for the bolt anchors.
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