Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingDumpster Evangelist

Dumpster Evangelist: Trad Climbing on Dozier Dome

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
trad crack
bolted face
knobby granite
single pitch
Yosemite
5.10a
alpine approach
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dumpster Evangelist
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dumpster Evangelist on Dozier Dome blends precise trad gear placements with bolted face climbing, offering an accessible yet technical 115-foot challenge in Yosemite’s high country. Ideal for those ready to push into sustained 5.10 terrain with solid protection and a sharp crux near the top."

Dumpster Evangelist: Trad Climbing on Dozier Dome

Dumpster Evangelist offers a focused introduction to trad climbing on Dozier Dome in the heart of Yosemite National Park. This single-pitch route stretches 115 feet along a shallow right-facing corner that demands precise gear placements before transitioning onto a bolted knobby face. Early on, you’ll establish protection with camalots ranging from a yellow alien to #2 sizes, setting a secure foundation before committing to the climb’s technical segment crowned by a sharp crux near the top. The rock feels solid beneath your hands, its rough texture inviting steady movement and confident footwork.

Dozier Dome commands attention not for overwhelming verticality but for the finesse it requires—especially on Dumpster Evangelist, where the line shifts leftward after the corner to access a run of well-spaced bolts. The climb rewards steady breathing and measured pacing more than brute force. Expect a blend of technical face climbing peppered with gear placements that keep you locked into the rock.

From the approach, the dome stands distinct with an exposed profile offering sweeping views of Tuolumne Meadows and the broader Yosemite high country. The approach trail winds over well-maintained switchbacks, taking about 20 minutes from the Tuolumne Meadows parking area. Its gentle grade and familiar granite terrain make it accessible, but be prepared for sun exposure during midday climbs.

Given the route's 5.10a rating, it sits just on the edge for intermediate climbers ready to push trad skills into more vertical and slightly more sustained cruxes. The bolted section near the top gives a psychological security net after the runout of the initial corner, but don’t underestimate the physical demands—foot placements are subtle, and the knobby face requires keen attention. Using a 70-meter rope is essential for lowering, while descent from nearby Blitzo’s Balcony calls for a double-rope rappel.

Planning a trip here means packing a trad rack with cams in the yellow alien to #2 Camalot range, along with quickdraws for the bolts at the crux. Footwear with sticky rubber is key for reliable edging on the textured granite. Start your climb earlier in the day to avoid the intense afternoon sun and reduce heat-related fatigue. Hydrate thoroughly before heading up and keep cautious on the rock—while solid, the climb’s challenges are technical rather than purely physical.

Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your trad lead skills or seeking a rewarding single-pitch challenge in Yosemite’s spectacular alpine setting, Dumpster Evangelist delivers with approachability and character. It’s a climb that invites measured commitment—in and out of the corner crack, in the body, and in the mind.

Climber Safety

Early corner placements require careful gear selection; missed placements could create dangerous runouts. The route’s descent via Blitzo’s Balcony involves a double-rope rappel—ensure your rope setup and anchors are solid. Also, be wary of sun exposure during afternoon climbs as granite can get hot and affect grip.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong midday sun on Dozier Dome’s east-facing walls.

Bring a rack heavy on small to medium cams for the corner crack protection.

A 70-meter rope works for lowering, but plan for a double-rope rappel on the descent.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to handle the knobby granite texture.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a, Dumpster Evangelist sits at a solid intermediate level, with a crux near the top that demands precise footwork and confident clipping on bolts after a runout corner section. The rating feels tight but fair—more technical than pumpy—with a short but sharp crux that separates steady climbers from those looking to sharpen their trad leads.

Gear Requirements

This route requires both active trad gear and bolts. For the initial 15 feet, bring cams in the size range from yellow aliens up to #2 Camalots. Beyond that, clip bolts on the face section. A 70 meter rope is suitable for lowering, but returning from nearby Blitzo's Balcony necessitates a double-rope rappel.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Dumpster Evangelist and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad crack
bolted face
knobby granite
single pitch
Yosemite
5.10a
alpine approach