"Duet provides a balanced trad climb up Chimney Spire’s southwest face, combining crack and chimney techniques over three pitches. Its moderate difficulty and practical gear requirements make it an ideal introduction to California’s granite spires."
Standing at the base of Chimney Spire’s southwest face, Duet offers a rewarding blend of crack climbing and chimney techniques spread across three solid pitches. The route begins with an inviting crack system guiding you into a roomy dihedral, where the rock’s texture shifts under your hands—from smooth edges to rougher pockets that test your grip and footwork. This first pitch carries climbers upward to a spacious ledge dotted with slung blocks, providing both a natural resting spot and a strategic place to regroup.
From here, Duet veers into a dramatic tunnel behind a large pillar. Maneuvering the belay here is crucial to maintain rope efficiency. The second pitch demands chimneying strength and finesse as it ascends a ventilated chimney, eventually spilling onto a knobby face capped with a bolted anchor. This section feels comparatively mellow, rated 5.6, but the need for precise body positioning keeps the mind alert.
The final pitch is short but rewarding, pushing only a few moves to the summit where sweeping views over Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park open wide. The combination of crack and chimney climbing offers an excellent way to refine traditional skills while immersed in the serene wilderness of California’s high country.
Accessing Duet requires a moderate hike and route-finding savvy in an area known for its granite spires. The rock quality is generally solid, but loose blocks near the ledges demand careful attention. Protection is straightforward, with plenty of placements for cams up to 4 inches and a set of nuts—ideal for those looking to climb with a balanced rack.
Plan your ascent during spring or fall to avoid the intense summer heat and potential snowpack lingering into early summer. Morning starts allow you to take advantage of sun on the wall and avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the Sierra region. Descending involves rappelling twice with a 60-meter rope: first down to the ledge, and then from that anchor to the ground. Attention to sling conditions on fixed gear is essential to ensure a safe return.
Duet is well-suited for climbers who appreciate classic trad routes with manageable difficulties and want a genuine connection to the granite landscape. Whether you’re stepping into crack climbing or looking to add a memorable three-pitch route to your logbook, Duet’s mix of technique and exposure captivates without overwhelming.
Loose blocks near the ledge above the first pitch require caution. Pay particular attention when setting belays and avoid dislodging rocks. Also, always examine fixed slings for wear before rappelling.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat and avoid storm buildup common in summer.
Bring a 60-meter rope for clean double rappels to descend safely.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good smearing ability for the slabby knobby face.
Inspect slung blocks and fixed gear closely, as some anchors may have frayed webbing.
Singles of cams up to 4 inches complemented by a full nut set provide ample protection. Fixed slings are present at some anchors but always check their condition before trusting them.
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