"Dude Biscuit beckons with a technical, compact slab climb at Devil's Head. Stretching 90 feet over one pitch, it challenges climbers with two key cruxes amid well-placed bolts, rewarding precision and balance in a distinctly Colorado setting."
At the heart of Colorado’s South Platte region, Dude Biscuit offers climbers a focused, technical challenge on solid slabs framed by the rugged Devil’s Head. This single-pitch sport route stretches 90 feet, demanding steady feet and precise balance. The climb begins with an inviting slab that immediately tests your composure, leading you beneath the first bulge. As you approach this initial obstacle, the route squeezes a little tighter, requiring a confident move to surmount the lip of the second bulge. The rock here is unforgiving, but well-bolted, giving you plenty of security to dial in your footwork and line.
Beyond this crux, the climb transitions to the headwall, a steeper section where the difficulty peaks again. The moves to crest this upper bulge require strength and focus to gain the slab above, which feels like a reward after the technical pushes below. The final stretch on this slab unfolds with generous bolt spacing, inviting climbers to breathe and recalibrate before reaching the anchors.
The route’s character is a clean, compact sport climb that highlights technical slab climbing with pockets of sustained challenge. The rock underfoot is typical for the Devil’s Head area — rough enough to hold but smoothed from the many hands that have passed before. The location’s latitude near 39.26 degrees means afternoon sun warms the rock early, making early starts preferable, especially during warmer months.
For anyone planning to take on Dude Biscuit, it’s practical to bring a standard sport rack: a set of draws will get you through this well-protected line with ease. The approach is straightforward, following established trails within the Devil’s Head area, so carrying light gear and hydration will keep you comfortable. Because the climb is only one pitch, it’s ideal for those wanting a quick but satisfying sport challenge that sharpens slab climbing skills.
The surrounding South Platte area is known for its accessible climbs and dramatic views of Colorado’s forested slopes and granite formations. While the Devil’s Head sector doesn’t have the isolation of backcountry climbing, it rewards with reliable rock quality and a community of climbers who frequently share tips and maintenance efforts. The proximity to a major metro area also means you can soak in alpine-like rock climbing close to town without a lengthy trek.
In summary, Dude Biscuit is a concise yet fulfilling outing for climbers ready to engage their balance, endurance, and mental focus on slab. Be ready for sun exposure, steady movement up technical features, and a solid anchor station at the top. Coupled with its accessible location, this route provides a perfect test piece for sport climbers looking to expand their crack-free skills in Colorado’s diverse climbing landscape.
The slab sections can be slick when wet, and the approach crosses rocky terrain where loose stones occasionally fall. Always wear a helmet and verify bolt integrity before the climb.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the slab excessively.
Focus on precise foot placements—slab climbing demands deliberate movements.
Carry ample water; the approach is short but can be dehydrating in warm weather.
Check for loose rocks at the base and remain alert during approach in wildlife areas.
Standard sport draws suffice for protection. The route features generously spaced bolts, so bring enough quickdraws to cover the pitch without unnecessary weight.
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