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Duck, Duck, Goose: A Technical Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
chimney
hand crack
large gear
short climb
desert granite
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Duck, Duck, Goose
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Duck, Duck, Goose offers a tight, hands-on trad climb on the eastern face of Left Hand of Darkness in Joshua Tree. This short chimney and hand crack sequence challenges climbers with technical moves and precise gear placements, rewarding skillful movement in a desert granite playground."

Duck, Duck, Goose: A Technical Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Rising on the eastern face of Left Hand of Darkness in Joshua Tree National Park, Duck, Duck, Goose presents a compact but compelling trad climb that demands focus and finesse. The route begins with a short approach scramble guiding you just right of the start of Granny Goose and Mother Goose climbs, placing you at the foot of a narrow, tight squeeze chimney—a defining feature that challenges both body and mind. This chimney, tucked just to the right of the sharp Mother Goose arête, beckons climbers to engage intimately with the rock, the cracks whispering the history of countless hands and feet that have found their holds here.

The ascent involves squirming upward through this confined space, confronting the rock’s personality—in some spots slick, in others offering just enough texture to steady your movement. The chimney narrows before opening into a short hand crack that leads you onto a broad terrace, a small but satisfying reward after the physical engagement below. The 35-foot climb is brief, but every move packs a technical punch, making it an excellent option for climbers looking to hone their chimney and crack skills without committing to a multi-pitch venture.

Joshua Tree’s character is present in every inch of the route: sun-drenched granite that cools only briefly under the desert sky at dawn or late afternoon, and a surrounding landscape that balances stark desert simplicity with the raw beauty of geological formations carved from centuries of wind and occasional rains.

Gear preparation here is straightforward but vital. Large gear is essential to safeguard the chimney’s tight spaces, where placements can feel both reassuring and tricky. Anchor material is necessary for setting up a top-rope for those who prefer to rehearse the moves before leading. This climb is often overlooked, giving it a quietly intimate atmosphere—just be ready for the desert’s quick temperature swings and bring plenty of water.

The approach is gentle yet purposeful, with a scramble that rewards attention to footing as it skirts adjacent climbs. After the climb, descending involves a careful retreat down the same access, requiring mindful footwork on loose gravel sections.

Duck, Duck, Goose is not about raw height or sprawling exposure; it’s about a concentrated moment of connection with Joshua Tree’s granite, an invitation to test technique on a subtly demanding trad problem that feels at once approachable and exacting. Whether you're brushing up on chimney escapes or searching for a short but meaningful challenge, this route offers a slice of Joshua Tree’s climbing soul with all the practical details needed to climb it well.

Climber Safety

The squeeze chimney can become hazardous if gear placements are rushed or insecure; ensure large cams are well seated. The approach scramble has loose gravel patches, so wear solid footwear and descend carefully to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday desert heat on the granite face.

Wear chalk to keep hands dry inside the chimney’s confined space.

Scout the approach carefully to find the scramble path just right of Mother Goose.

Carry extra webbing or cordelette to build a firm anchor on top of the terrace.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, the climb demands precise technique more than raw strength. The chimney’s confined nature adds a physical crux with moderate difficulty, making this a slightly stiff challenge for its grade. It compares well to other Joshua Tree classics with a focus on compact crack and chimney skills.

Gear Requirements

Bring large camming devices to protect the chimney section securely; smaller gear will not fit well in the squeeze. Anchor material is necessary for setting up a top-rope or bolting in a secure rappel.

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Tags

chimney
hand crack
large gear
short climb
desert granite