"Drug Abuse is a brief but gritty trad climb tucked into Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. Offering a single pitch of lichenous rock and technical footwork, it’s a solid option if you want to avoid crowds while honing trad skills."
Tucked into the rugged landscape of Eldorado Canyon State Park, Drug Abuse offers a compact yet engaging trad climbing experience away from the busier Pony Express climbs. This single-pitch route, rated 5.9, presents a gritty challenge on textured, lichen-covered rock that demands focused footwork and steady hands. The climb begins about 30 yards right of the Mesca-line start, marked by a sizable block that serves as your launching point into a vertical journey. The first moves lead through dirty rock to an unmistakable undercling, which then guides you left and back up along a slightly off-center crack. The rock feels alive with age and grit, every hold whispering the canyon’s rugged history. Although the climbing itself won’t test your endurance for long, it will reward precise technique and composure.
Above, the belay ledge waits, but caution is vital—loose rock crowds the area, threatening a careless moment. The ledge's instability adds a mental puzzle that extends the route’s physical demands. After topping out, the descent involves a balance-testing downclimb to Mesca-line’s anchors, where a steady approach is crucial to avoid slips on unstable footing.
Expect dusty, rough terrain underfoot and the scent of worn stone mingling with the pine-scented air. The area rarely holds crowds, making it a workable alternative when Eldo’s more popular faces have a lineup. Protection demands a well-rounded rack of nuts and cams, plus longer slings to manage awkward placements around the blocky features. Although short, Drug Abuse stands as a solid midday break or a less-traveled option to warm up those trad skills before heading out onto Eldo’s more famous walls.
Plan for moderate exposure to sun; mid-morning starts often provide ideal temperatures before the afternoon heats set in. Bring plenty of water, choose sturdy climbing shoes suited for fragile rock, and keep your helmet secure—loose rock is a constant companion here. Whether you’re transitioning from sport to trad or looking for a quick taste of Eldo’s character, this route’s raw and practical spirit captures a slice of climbing history wrapped in honest challenge and rugged terrain.
Loose rock dominates the belay ledge and descent area—helmets are non-negotiable and maintaining solid footing is critical. Avoid this climb after heavy rain or freeze-thaw cycles when instability increases. The downclimb requires balance on exposed but generally secure holds; carefully assess every move.
Start about 30 yards right of the Mesca-line route at a large block for the approach.
Be extremely cautious on the belay ledge; loose rock can be hazardous.
Prepare for a tricky downclimb to Mesca-line anchors—work your balance carefully.
Aim for early morning to avoid strong afternoon sun warming the rock.
Carry a standard rack of nuts and cams, complemented by a few long slings to handle awkward placements and manage rope drag around the larger blocks. Helmet strongly advised due to loose rock at belay and descent.
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