"Droolin' Jugs delivers a brief yet compelling sport climb at Midway Wall, featuring large, enticing holds that demand reach and refined technique. Perfect for climbers wanting a focused challenge within Sea to Sky’s accessible and scenic Nordic Rock area."
Droolin' Jugs is a short but intense sport climb that puts you face to face with big, inviting holds that dare you to reach beyond your comfort zone. Located on the Midway Wall in the Nordic Rock area of the renowned Sea to Sky corridor, this 50-foot route challenges climbers with its surprisingly demanding moves despite a seemingly moderate 5.9 rating. The climb begins with large, almost playful jugs; however, their generous size can be deceptive, especially for those on the shorter side, as they require an extended reach to connect smoothly. The wall itself presents a clean, vertical face bolted solidly with four fixed bolts, making protection reliable and straightforward for climbers who appreciate sport routes that let them focus purely on movement.
Midway Wall's positioning in British Columbia’s Sea to Sky region offers more than just a climb—it's an introduction to a robust climbing environment known for varied rock quality and stunning mountain views. The approach to Droolin' Jugs is quick and accessible, easing walkers into the action, allowing more energy to be invested in the climb itself. With only one pitch, this is an excellent route for those looking to sharpen their technical skills or get a quick taste of sport climbing’s flow without committing to a multi-pitch expedition.
Despite its friendly facade, the route carries a solid technical edge. Its 5.9 rating feels a bit stiff thanks to the reachy nature of the holds, which adds a personal negotiation between strength and technique. The climb suits intermediate climbers with a good sense of body positioning, while stronger beginners might find it a valuable test of their limits. The granite here is typical of Sea to Sky — clean and offering an optimal friction profile — but be mindful of occasional slickness depending on weather conditions, especially dampness from coastal moisture.
When planning your climb, timing your ascent for mid-morning or late afternoon can help avoid the strongest direct sunlight, as the wall faces a generally south-easterly direction, catching good light but also heat during summer months. Waterproof shoes with firm edging capabilities and chalk for grip are encouraged. Given the route’s short span, carrying a light rack focused mostly on quickdraws (the four bolts provide the main protection) streamlines your pack and keeps the focus on delivering size and precision to each move.
After topping out, the descent is straightforward: walk off along the well-marked trail back to the base, making it ideal for climbers wanting an energetic session without complications. Although small, Droolin' Jugs offers a refreshingly direct challenge that underscores the variety and character of Sea to Sky climbing—where natural features meet solid climbing logic for a route that engages both the body and mind.
While the protection is straightforward, focus on smooth clipping due to the limited bolt count; a fall near the first moves may pendulum if not controlled. The rock is generally solid but can feel slick when wet, so avoid climbing when damp or after rain.
Plan your climb for mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun on the wall.
Use chalk and shoes with good edging to maintain grip on the granite surface.
The route’s holds are reach-dependent—tall climbers may find moves easier to connect.
The descent is a simple walk-off; no rappelling gear necessary.
The route is protected by four well-placed bolts, requiring only a light rack of quickdraws. Reliable fixed gear minimizes the need for traditional placements, making it easy to focus on movement and flow.
Upload your photos of Droolin' Jugs and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.