"Dreams Of Darkness offers a sustained, technical off-width climb on Eldorado’s south prow that challenges body and mind alike. Stretching 100 feet with a distinct roof near the top, this trad route is a true test for off-width enthusiasts."
Dreams Of Darkness stands as a bold invitation for trad climbers hungry for a sustained off-width test in one of Colorado's most storied climbing areas. Located on the west side of the south/southwest prow at Sobo in Eldorado Canyon State Park, this route commands attention with its demanding 80-foot off-width pitch capped by a distinctively rugged roof feature. From the approach, which follows the same access as its neighbor Dreams Of Light, you move to the left flank of the prow where the rock looms with raw character. The climb itself offers a sequence of moderately challenging moves before you lock into the core off-width section, an 80-foot stretch of crack that presses you to match steady technique with endurance and mental grit.
The off-width never loosens its grip; it is a long, physical dance that rewards those comfortable with hand-to-fist jams and climbing in awkward body positions. Nearing the top, a fractured band leads to the key roof section about 4 feet wide. Though it looks intimidating, the roof is surprisingly manageable with solid jams and chunky holds that invite confidence. The crux isn’t the roof itself but the relentlessness of the sustained off-width below it. Protection gear fits tightly along the crack system, with placements ranging from 2 inches up to 4 inches in diameter—though bigger cams, like modern equivalents of the #6 C4 or Big Bros, are necessary to feel secure on this route.
The rock quality is typical Eldorado sandstone—hard and gritty—with some chockstones left from the original first ascension party. These may require extra care or effort to clean or work around but generally hold if treated with respect. Climbers should expect a physical, committed day on the wall, where endurance and solid off-width skills pay off. Positioning yourself skillfully on jams and using efficient body movement will turn what could be a punishing blade into a series of measured progressions up the stone.
The approach is straightforward, following a well-trodden path into Eldorado Canyon with access coordinates placing you at 39.9536 latitude and -105.29954 longitude. The trail is solid underfoot, passing through the park’s characteristic pine-spotted boulder fields and sun-drenched cliffs. Expect about a 20-minute walk-in from parking areas, making it an accessible venture for climbers looking to pair adventure with manageable logistics. Eldorado’s dry climate demands attention to hydration and sun protection, especially during warmer months, and the recommended climbing window stretches from spring through fall when temperatures are milder and the rock is comfortably dry.
Safety demands caution when placing pro, particularly in the upper sections where gaps in protection can extend and require confidence placing larger cams. The route’s PG-13 rating signals that it’s not just the climbing grade to consider but also the mental game involved in managing runouts on wide crack systems. The technique-heavy nature of this climb means climbers unfamiliar with off-widths should prepare accordingly, perhaps by training on easier cracks before attempting this sustained grade.
In the context of Eldorado’s climbing landscape, Dreams Of Darkness offers something different—a chance to work your way through one of the most comprehensive off-width challenges in the canyon. Unlike shorter, more abrupt crack climbs in the area, this route extends the encounter, testing stamina and crack skills in a way few others do. It’s a worthy goal for trad climbers looking to expand their repertoire or embrace a classic style with rugged authenticity. Whether you seek a pushing physical day or a chance to dig into pure crack climbing, Dreams Of Darkness stakes its claim as a demanding, memorable ascent.
Watch your protection placements carefully—some sections require unusually large cams and chockstones present may not always be solid. The 80-foot off-width exposes climbers to extended runouts where a fall could be hazardous, so place pro diligently and double-check slings on chockstones.
Carry a comprehensive rack of wide cams, especially sizes #5-#6 to protect the off-width adequately.
Start early to avoid midday heat; the west-facing prow gets direct sun in the afternoon.
Practice off-width techniques on easier cracks before tackling this sustained route.
Watch for loose chockstones near the roof section; assess stability before weighting.
Protection demands a robust rack of large cams, ideally including modern #6 C4 equivalents or Big Bros for secure placements in the wide crack. Smaller cams cover 2" to 4" sizes but runouts are possible if underprepared. Some chockstones remain from the first ascent, requiring careful inspection or cleaning to ensure safe progression.
Upload your photos of Dreams Of Darkness and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.