"Drain Evader challenges climbers with a focused 72-foot trad pitch featuring a sharp corner and a slabby arête crux. This well-protected 5.10c climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs delivers solid technique demands wrapped in a rewarding, accessible package."
Drain Evader offers climbers a compact yet demanding shot of trad action in the heart of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, a renowned playground for dry tooling and rock ascents alike. This 72-foot single-pitch route invites you into a sculpted corner just left of the popular Clandestine Affair climb, setting the stage with a sharp, clean line that tests your technical edge and mental focus. The initial crack demands precise hand and foot placements, drawing you upward with a steady rhythm, before you shift right onto a slabby arête. The arête delivers the climb's crux — a delicate sequence that blends balance and fingertip finesse under the watchful eye of three strategically placed bolts, offering both security and an encouragement to push your limits.
The rock here is a firm granitic gray, its surface offering solid friction but requiring careful footwork to maintain traction on the slab. The route’s moderate 5.10c rating hides subtle challenges: the rock’s features are polished in places, nudging you to trust your feet fully and move with intention. Drain Evader’s standard trad rack protection suggests the need for a versatile set of cams and nuts, fitting snugly into the corner’s constraints and the adjacent pockets, providing reassurance where natural protection is thin.
Approaching the route is straightforward, accessed via well-marked trails through the Smoke Bluffs Natural Area. A short walk from Penny Lane leads you under the canopy of towering Douglas firs, their rustling needles a soft soundtrack as you gear up to climb. The area’s temperate coastal climate means climbs remain accessible most of the year, though early spring and autumn deliver the best dry conditions and comfortable temperatures.
Given its concise length and concentrated crux, Drain Evader suits climbers ready to sharpen their crack climbing skills while enjoying the raw, rugged character of Smoke Bluffs. The route’s location offers sweeping views towards Squamish’s surrounding mountains, casting an inspiring backdrop that reminds you why this area is a must-visit for trad enthusiasts. After topping out, descent is a controlled rappel or a careful walk off via established trails, allowing quick turnaround for more climbs.
Whether you’re stepping up to push your 5.10 abilities or adding a well-protected classic to your Squamish tick list, Drain Evader blends technical challenge with the solid security of well-placed bolts and natural gear. It’s a balanced experience — both demanding and rewarding — perfectly fitting the Smoke Bluffs ethos of accessible adventure with a practical edge.
The climb’s slabby arête relies on three bolts for protection, but the rock can feel slick if moist, so avoid climbing after rain or in damp conditions. The approach is straightforward but watch footing near the base as loose debris and wet rocks can be present.
Arrive early for dry rock and fewer crowds.
Wear sticky-soled shoes for the slab section to maximize grip.
Bring a medium rack ranging from small to medium cams and nuts to cover protection needs.
Plan for a quick rappel descent with a 60m rope or a careful walk-off.
A standard trad rack is essential here, focusing on a range of cams and nuts to protect the corner and adjacent features. The three bolts on the arête offer additional security for the crux moves, making gear choices straightforward but critical.
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