"Dragon Fly carves a clean, jug-heavy line up the upper NW face of Avalon's Third Tier. Ideal for climbers seeking a confident 5.9 with solid protection and a straightforward, accessible single pitch experience."
Carving its way up the upper northwest face of Avalon's Third Tier, Dragon Fly presents a straightforward yet engaging sport climb that rewards steady focus and smooth movement. This route rises 60 feet of firm stone studded with solid jugs, inviting climbers to rely on impeccable handholds set against a backdrop of Boulder Canyon's rugged charm. Starting just to the right of the Dragon Slayer's base, Dragon Fly demands that climbers resist the temptation to veer off into easier ground, as the line follows a clear bolt path straight up and slightly right. Each bolt is thoughtfully placed, allowing a steady pace that plays to the strengths of those comfortable with sustained 5.9 climbing and classic jugs.
The approach is a vital first step in any ascent here, weaving through the layered rock formations and pines that define the Wall of the Dragon sector. Underfoot, the trail is a rugged mix of dirt and loose rock, requiring attentive footing but delivering steady progress to the base. The Wall of the Dragon itself feels alive—as if the cliffs watch over the climber—its coarse textures and angular profiles daring ascent with intentionality. Weather conditions can shift quickly in this part of Colorado, so early starts are best to catch the face in morning shade, while afternoon climbs risk sun exposure that heats the rock.
Protection on Dragon Fly consists of five bolts leading up to a two-bolt anchor that has earned a reputation for reliability. The rock holds quietly guarantee secure clips, but it’s wise to double check your quickdraw placements, as the angle of the face can make clipping feel unusual at moments. For gear, a standard set of draws is all that’s necessary—no additional trad protection is needed here. This simplicity makes Dragon Fly an accessible introduction to the Wall of the Dragon series, where neighboring routes can be considerably more committing.
The local vibe is friendly and low-key, with voting reflecting steady satisfaction from the community. The climb rewards attention to detail on sequence and rhythm more than brute force, making it a perfect option for intermediate climbers stepping up their sport game in Boulder’s distinctive setting. Once you clip the anchor, the descent involves a straightforward rappel down the fixed two-bolt station, easing the transition back to the trail. This thoughtful setup ensures a quick turnaround, ideal for days with multiple climbs planned.
Whether you're chasing Boulder’s renowned red granite or just aiming for a confident 5.9, Dragon Fly offers a compact, well-protected climb that balances solid movement with practical accessibility. Prepare with sturdy shoes, check the weather forecast, and bring enough water for the hike in. In this corner of the Front Range, the rock itself feels like an invitation—steady, determined, and ready to test your focus on every jug.
While the bolts and anchors are solid, it's important to remain attentive on the approach trail, which can be slippery in wet conditions. Also, the descent rappels require double-checking your rappel device and anchor points before committing.
Start early to enjoy morning shade on the NW face and avoid afternoon sun heating the rock.
Stick to the bolt line; the right side offers no easier options and can be deceptive.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging for the jug-focused handholds and occasional smears.
Bring ample water for the hike in, as Boulder Canyon trails can be dry and sunny.
Dragon Fly requires five quickdraws to clip the bolts, ending at a two-bolt ring anchor. No additional gear beyond standard sport setup needed. The anchors are solid and reliable for safe rappels.
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