HomeClimbingDrag the Magic

Drag the Magic

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
hand crack
right-facing flake
laybacks
bolt protected
crack protection
sea to sky climbing
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Drag the Magic
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Drag the Magic is a tightly focused trad climb blending crack jams and technical face moves in Sea to Sky’s Suburb sector. This 75-foot pitch offers a rewarding challenge with strategic protection and stellar granite, perfect for climbers ready to sharpen crack technique on solid rock."

Drag the Magic

Drag the Magic offers a concise but intense climb set in the heart of Sea to Sky's renowned Suburb sector. This single-pitch trad route demands focus from the start, as you launch onto a right-facing flake that invites underclings and laybacks—where medium to large nuts fit securely, weaving protection that feels at once necessary and manageable. As you reach the flake’s top, a well-placed bolt punctuates the route, providing an encouraging clip before pulling through an overlap lined with small, precise holds. The challenge continues as you trend left into a handcrack that demands finger- and fist-sized cams, the crack’s shape shaping your movements and testing your balance as you ascend to a prominent pedestal. Beyond this resting spot, a few more bolts guide you on straightforward moves toward the top ledge.

Set against a backdrop of towering granite and framed by the rugged peaks of British Columbia’s coast range, Drag the Magic is where technical tradition meets bold movement. Expect the granite to feel firm and textured, supporting secure foot placements even as the small holds ask for determined finger strength. The single pitch, at 75 feet, packs a noteworthy vertical push that rewards those with steady nerves and solid crack technique.

Practical preparation is key: bring an active rack ranging from finger-sized cams up to fist-sized placements, supplemented by a set of medium wired nuts. The limited bolts are strategic but sparse, so deliberate protection placement is essential for both safety and rhythm. Approach from the established trails within the Gorge area, ideally timing your climb mid to late morning to catch the warming granite without the afternoon glare. Bear in mind that Sea to Sky's variable weather calls for layered clothing and attention to sudden changes, especially outside summer’s dry spell.

Engaging and accessible for climbers comfortable with 5.10d crack work, this route challenges you with a sequence that flows from crack jams to technical face moves—offering a satisfying test of versatility. The setting provides a quiet refuge from busier nearby areas, where the forested trail hums beneath the bustle of the climbs above. As you pull the final moves to the ledge, the sense of accomplishment is vivid and well-earned, the rock beneath your hands a firm reminder of raw outdoor challenge. Whether adding this to your Sea to Sky repertoire or marking a bold first step in traditional climbing, Drag the Magic promises an adventure that pushes skill and rewards focus.

Climber Safety

The route features limited bolts with critical protection coming from nuts and cams in the crack and flake. Careful gear placement is required, and the ledge at the top is narrow—exercise caution when belaying or cleaning. Wet or mossy rock after rain decreases friction significantly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Gorge trails; expect a 15-minute walk over forested, uneven ground.

Start climbing mid to late morning to avoid cold rock and afternoon sun glare.

Ensure active rack includes cam sizes for hands and fingers—crack size varies quickly.

Keep steady pace on the undercling flake to maintain balance before the overlap.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating accurately reflects the route’s demanding sequence across crack and face holds. The initial undercling and overlap present a crux combining strength and precision, while the handcrack section demands confident cam placements. Compared to nearby Sea to Sky climbs, it leans toward a technical and mental challenge rather than sustained endurance.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with medium to large nuts, complemented by finger to fist-sized cams (2 and 3 Camalots essential). Protection includes several well-spaced bolts along the upper section, but emphasis is on solid trad placements in the crack and flake features.

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Tags

hand crack
right-facing flake
laybacks
bolt protected
crack protection
sea to sky climbing