"Dr. Strange Glove is a classic single-pitch trad climb on Holy Buttress Cliff offering a blend of delicate crack jams and bold exposure. This 90-foot route blends technical finesse with a gripping hand crack, perfect for climbers seeking focused adventure near Mammoth Lakes."
Dr. Strange Glove offers a concentrated taste of Sierra climbing with a single pitch that combines technical crack work and bold exposure. This 90-foot route stands out along the Holy Buttress, where quartz monzonite slabs bear the marks of countless palms searching for purchase. The climb begins on a thin, inviting crack that quickly demands precision finger locking and thoughtful body placement. As the path expands, the route leads climbers to a broad, sloping ledge that feels like a quiet pause before the adventure intensifies.
From this ledge, the approach shifts left into a juggy corner that lets you rest briefly while sizing up what lies ahead. The real challenge emerges as the crack narrows and squeezes—forcing you to reconsider your strategy and transition smoothly onto an exposed hand crack on the face. This section is where the rock feels alive, as if daring you to commit fully to the coming moves, balancing finesse and strength with a hint of vulnerability. The hand crack’s line demands steady breathing and trust in your placements, rewarding persistent climbers with an airy belay station perched on a large ledge.
Located within the diverse landscape of Mammoth Lakes’ Sierra Eastside, this climb features solid rock and a commitment to traditional climbing ethics with protection ranging up to 2.5 inches. The approach is manageable, and the line itself is a standout for those seeking a route that skillfully blends technical crack climbing with a dose of exposure — without the complications of a multi-pitch adventure.
Preparation calls for a standard rock rack geared toward crack protection sizes and comfortable shoes that can handle delicate jammed moves as well as face climbing on gritty quartz monzonite. Early season through late fall offers the best conditions here, as the sun hits the aspect just right to warm the stone without overheating. With only one pitch, this route packs an intense, memorable experience into a compact package, perfect for climbers aiming to sharpen hand crack techniques or get their first taste of the Holy Buttress.
Dr. Strange Glove’s location near Mammoth Lakes also means easy access to amenities, but the climb itself feels tucked away, inviting a moment of quiet focus amid a wild mountain environment. For those chasing a straightforward yet thrilling crack climb, this route provides a perfect balance—technical enough to engage without overwhelming, and exposed enough to remind you why you’re drawn to the vertical world.
Be mindful that the crux section on the exposed hand crack has limited large protection—secure placements before committing to the moves. The sloping ledge at the belay offers good rest but watch for loose debris on approach and descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat hitting the granite face.
Wear comfortable climbing shoes with good edging for the slab sections.
Practice hand jams and squeeze chimney moves to improve efficiency.
Check weather reports—granite can get slick after rain or snow.
Bring a full standard rack with cams up to 2.5" to safely protect the varying crack widths along the route. Stoppers and nuts complement protection well, though active placements dominate.
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