"Dr. Haney delivers a concise 45-foot sport climb in Joshua Tree's Tool Shed Area. Its secure bolts and straightforward line make it ideal for emerging climbers looking to build confidence in a quiet desert setting."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Joshua Tree National Park, Dr. Haney offers a straightforward yet satisfying climb that invites both newcomers and seasoned sport climbers. Situated in the lesser-trafficked Tool Shed Area, just southeast of the prominent Jumbo Rock formations, this route presents a compact 45-foot challenge that ascends the southwest edge of a striking dark boulder. The climb’s three bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor, providing secure, reliable protection with a clean line that requires only quickdraws. The rock itself is firm and offers a textured surface that rewards careful footwork and steady handholds.
The approach is easy to navigate from Cottonwood Road, visible from a distance as a lone route climbing a shadowed edge. Climbers can anticipate a brief walk-in across desert terrain dotted with resilient shrubs and sun-baked granite. The area draws a quieter crowd, making it an ideal spot for those looking to sharpen sport climbing skills without the bustle of Joshua Tree’s busiest sectors.
Although brief in length, Dr. Haney’s route has a steady 5.8 rating that feels approachable for many climbers ready to push into intermediate grades. It’s a solid introduction to short sport climbs with bolts placed to encourage confident movement and a measured pace. The reliable protection layout means it’s well suited for top-roping as well, offering flexibility for groups or climbers dialing in their lead technique.
Planning for heat and hydration is crucial here, especially during peak Joshua Tree seasons when the desert sun can intensify rapidly. Morning climbs provide comfortable temperatures and indirect sunlight, while afternoon sessions may bring warmer surfaces and limited shade. Sturdy footwear with good edge grip is recommended due to the granite’s coarse texture and occasional sharp features.
This route’s quiet location, coupled with its clear line and uncomplicated access, makes Dr. Haney a practical choice for climbers seeking a no-frills, quality sport climb. Whether you’re refining your form or simply enjoying a mellow day on the rock, this short pitch rewards focus with the satisfaction of clean moves and desert views that stretch toward the horizon.
While the route is bolted well, climbers should remain alert for the desert sun’s intensity. The base has some loose surface rock, so maintain a safe stance during belaying and watch for tumble hazards on the approach.
Start your climb early to avoid peak afternoon heat.
Bring plenty of water—desert sun and open terrain offer little natural shade.
Wear climbing shoes with solid edging capability due to coarse granite surfaces.
Check for loose rock near the base before you start and stand clear during falls.
The climb is protected exclusively with quickdraws clipped to three bolts, leading cleanly to a two-bolt anchor. No additional trad gear is necessary.
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