HomeClimbingDr. Feelgood

Dr. Feelgood: Classic Trad Climb on Bighorn Wall

Bishop, California United States
trad
single pitch
granite
technical moves
crux
bolted
optional gear
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dr. Feelgood
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dr. Feelgood delivers a sharp single-pitch trad challenge on Bighorn Wall with technical moves and a rewarding final crux. Perfect for climbers seeking accessible granite adventure in the rugged Pine Creek Canyon."

Dr. Feelgood: Classic Trad Climb on Bighorn Wall

Carved into the rugged expanse of Bighorn Wall, Dr. Feelgood offers a compact yet memorable trad climb that balances technical moves with straightforward approaches. This 110-foot pitch starts with an easy scramble up a gentle ramp rated around 5.5, presenting a smooth entry that warms your fingers and focus. About 30 feet in, you reach the first bolt—an anchor point that signals the transition from simple moves to more engaging climbing. The route demands attention as you navigate tricky moves past the third bolt, where precise footwork and confident hand placements become essential. This middle section breathes easier, giving a moment to absorb the vertical exposure and the quiet vastness of Scheelite Canyon. But the challenge isn’t over; a final crux tests your control and composure before you reach the fixed anchors awaiting at the top.

Dr. Feelgood suits climbers who appreciate technical climbing without extended commitment. The protection is well-spaced, composed of eight bolts with optional gear placements up to 3 inches, allowing flexibility for those who prefer supplementing the fixed hardware with traditional gear. At just one pitch, it’s an excellent route for a quick day out or as a warm-up to explore the larger faces of Pine Creek Canyon. The granite offers solid holds, but attention to detail is necessary, especially in the crux sections where holds get smaller and slanting.

Approach is straightforward yet rugged, starting from a well-trodden trail that winds through pine-scented forest floors and granite talus. The scramble to the base is approachable for most climbers willing to move steadily downhill through mixed terrain. Once atop, sweeping views of Bishop’s high desert extend toward the Sierra Eastside, framing the climb in a dramatic natural contrast between the granite walls and sky-stretched horizons.

For planning your ascent, timing is key: early mornings bring crisp air and shaded granite, ideal for cooler climbing conditions, while mid-day can heat up the rock, demanding careful hydration and sun protection. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging ability will pay dividends here, as will a well-packed rack incorporating smaller cams alongside standard nuts to cover the optional gear placements.

Though the climb is moderate in length, it invites respect with variable protection spacing and its sending crux. Always double-check the fixed anchors before committing to the final moves, and be mindful of loose rock on the scramble approach. Dr. Feelgood is a rewarding climb that blends accessible adventure with the satisfaction of nailing technical sequences on natural gear, making it a must-try for trad enthusiasts exploring the Sierra Eastside’s granite challenges.

Climber Safety

Loose rock can be present on the approach scramble and near the first bolt; wear a helmet and move carefully. The spacing between bolts requires attentive gear placements for safety, particularly in the crux zone.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in shade and avoid midday heat.

Bring a rack with small to medium cams, especially up to 3 inches.

Check fixed anchors carefully before lowering off.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for better precision on tricky moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating accurately reflects the route’s moderate technical demands, with a crux section that elevates the challenge without feeling overly stiff. Protection is generally secure but optional cams add confidence for nervous leaders, making it comparable to other approachable 5.9 trad routes in the Bishop area.

Gear Requirements

Eight bolts secure most of the climb with optional gear placements up to 3 inches, allowing mixed protection strategies. A fixed anchor at the top simplifies the belay station.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
granite
technical moves
crux
bolted
optional gear