"Challenging and raw, the Downhill Route winds up a loose, sharp ridge at Las Agujas, demanding precise moves amid limited protection. This climb is a high-stakes trad adventure for those ready to embrace risk and rugged terrain."
The Downhill Route in Las Agujas of El Potrero Chico demands respect at every step, prowling the ridge of a jagged spire that leans conspicuously toward the road. This two-pitch trad climb challenges your instincts and commitment more than your technical skill, where loose rock and sparse protection turn each move into a calculated risk. Starting low on the spine near the south approach trail—an area marked by hardy, unforgiving cactus—the climb immediately tests grit and careful foot placement. The first pitch offers a blend of moderate 5.5 scrambling interspersed with bulletproof face climbing that can reach 5.9 or 5.10 if you avoid using hollow-sounding holds. Protection vanishes quickly, and the ever-present cactus flanks your route like a silent menace, sharp and unforgiving.
Despite the initial hazard and exposed rock, the final 30 feet on pitch one deliver a few old pins and solid, cleaner rock, ending on a sloping ledge where a three-piece anchor made of two yellow and one red Camalot—along with a hidden pin tucked away for the committed—allows for a safer belay. Here, the quality of gear placements can mean the difference between a controlled ascent and a tense upward fight.
Pitch two splits into two options. The classical continuation to the north face involves a tricky traverse into a wide crack system. This move has historically caused hesitation among climbers, with old pins dotted along the way and new bolts marking the route Sunnyside Up nearby. If the traverse feels daunting, the 'Fear and Trembling' variation offers a direct bail of 5.9 face climbing, ascending straight past unstable features to a ledge below a headwall and large block. From there, climbers follow the Sunnyside Up crack, placing pro on the fly, ignoring the bolts.
This climb lives in a raw, wild corner of El Potrero Chico. It's not a polished route by any means but offers a tangible taste of adventure climbing on gear that demands attention and commitment. Know your gear, trust your placements, and expect the unexpected. There’s little margin for error, making this route better suited for seasoned trad climbers who appreciate a high-stakes climb that tests both their technique and mental resolve.
This route offers minimal protection and rests on some unreliable rock along a sharp ridge cloaked in cactus. One misstep can be costly. Double-check all gear placements and avoid trying the north face traverse if you feel unsure—fall potential is significant. Wear long pants and consider gloves to avoid cactus injury.
Prepare for sharp cactus close to the start—wear durable clothing to avoid pricks.
Avoid hollow or loose blocks on pitch one; stick to solid face holds for safety.
If uncertain about the north face traverse on pitch two, opt for the Fear and Trembling variation.
Approach during dry seasons for more reliable rock conditions and minimal hazard from loose debris.
Bring a single rack of trad gear with a generous selection of smaller and medium pieces. Two yellow and one red Camalot are essential for the pitch 1 anchor. The route offers sparse pro, so be ready to rely on careful placements and trust your gear judgment.
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