"Doubled Back is a focused trad climb climbing a solid granite crack with crisp hand jams and a crux that tests power and precision. Ideal for trad climbers looking to hone their crack skills on a compact, rewarding route at Box Springs Mountain Park."
Doubled Back in Box Springs Mountain Park presents an inviting challenge for climbers eager to test their crack climbing finesse on solid granite. This single-pitch trad route stretches 18 feet up a sharply defined crack, offering hand jams that feel secure and satisfying under your grip. The climb begins with a weathered flake that demands careful footwork and patience, as its brittle surface adds a touch of unpredictability to the opening moves. Once past this initial hurdle, the route settles into a rhythm of steady jamming and upward momentum.
The route’s character revolves around a distinctive crux near the upper half, where you must execute a powerful reach from a left-hand jam to a sturdy, bomber ledge on the right side of the crack. This move rewards both strength and precision, as the ledge provides a reliable resting spot before the final stretch to the top. The granite here feels clean and solid, giving confidence to trusting your placements and technique.
Protection on Doubled Back requires a mix of passive and active gear. The narrow crack in the first section favors smaller trad pieces like stoppers and micro nuts, which fit snugly and offer security in the tighter seams. As the crack widens near the crux, a couple of cams become essential to protect the more exposed section and support a safe ascent. Climbers should prepare for gear sizing that shifts noticeably along the route, packing light but versatile protection.
Located in Inland Empire’s Box Springs Mountain Park, this climb benefits from easy access and a quiet setting just minutes from urban centers. The approach is straightforward, with well-marked trails leading to Crack Towers, where the granite walls rise sharply against a backdrop of chaparral and oak-covered foothills. Early mornings and late afternoons provide ideal conditions to enjoy this climb with softer sunlight and cooler temperatures, especially in California’s warmer seasons.
Doubled Back appeals to climbers refining their trad skills, offering a compact yet rich experience. The solid granite, engaging crack features, and precise protection needs make it an excellent spot to practice clean placements and crack techniques. Whether you're working through the crux move or soaking in the calm environment of Box Springs, this climb delivers a dense taste of granite trad climbing with well-earned rewards at its modest height.
For the descent, climbers can expect an easy walk-off down the access trail, minimizing the need for rappels or complex downclimbs. The approachable nature of this route makes it a perfect addition to a desert or southern California climbing day, combining manageable effort with technical demands that sharpen traditional climbing competence.
The initial weathered flake can be brittle — test placements carefully and avoid dynamic moves that might dislodge loose rock. Protection can feel thin early on, so take your time to ensure gear is well seated before the crux section.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat; the crack can get warm under direct sun.
Bring finger-sized nuts and small cams for the narrow crack at the start.
Keep your shoes sticky but comfortable—footwork on the flake demands sensitivity.
Plan for a simple walk-off descent to save energy for the climb itself.
Traditional gear is a must here. Passive protection suits the tight lower section, while a couple of cams secure the wider, more exposed crux. Packing a versatile rack that covers smaller nuts and medium cams is the key to climbing smoothly.
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