HomeClimbingDouble Ospreys Right

Double Ospreys Right: A Classic Trad Climb in Southern Sierra

Fresno,California ,United States
trad
one pitch
granite
dike crystals
bulge move
Southern Sierra
protected rap anchors
Grade: 5.9
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Double Ospreys Right
Aspect
South Facing

Double Ospreys Right

5.9, Trad

Fresno

California ,United States

Overview

"Double Ospreys Right carves a direct line along a corner transitioning onto a ramp, blending bolt-protected sections with traditional gear placements. Its 5.9 grade offers a moderate yet engaging challenge framed by crystal-studded granite and a bulging move that tests technique and focus."

Double Ospreys Right: A Classic Trad Climb in Southern Sierra

Double Ospreys Right offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb set against the rugged backdrop of California’s Southern Sierra. Starting at the corner where a pronounced ledge meets a rising ramp, this route demands precise footwork and steady hands to navigate the subtle challenges within its 150-foot stretch. A single bolt marks the initial passage, guiding climbers past a distinctive bulge that tests crack technique and balance. Beyond this, a pair of bolts provide safe passage through sections dotted with shimmering dike crystals, elements that catch the sunlight and elevate the sensory experience. The climb ends with an easy ramp to well-established anchors, rewarding climbers with a composed finish after a steady push.

Situated in the Wimovi Pluton area, Double Ospreys Right is an accessible adventure that fits well into a day of exploring Southern Sierra’s granite walls. The climb’s 5.9 rating aligns with its technical demands, offering an engaging challenge especially for those comfortable with placing cams alongside fixed bolts. Protection includes strategic bolts blended with traditional gear placements, making it important to carry a varied rack, particularly smaller cams for tricky spots.

Approaching this climb involves negotiating moderate terrain with clear footpaths, taking roughly 20 to 30 minutes from the nearest trailhead. The granite itself is firm and solid, though sections with dike crystals require careful attention to foot placements and handholds. When planning your ascent, consider the time of day for optimal sunlight, as the face catches the morning rays but leans toward shade by afternoon — ideal timing helps maintain good conditions and comfortable temperatures.

Safety remains key here: while protection is solid, the bulge demands respect due to its position and occasional loose rock around crystal patches. Helmets are strongly advised, and a cautious but confident approach will ensure a smooth climb. Descent via fixed anchors involves a straightforward rappel or a manageable downclimb for those with solid footing and experience.

For climbers looking to immerse themselves in the Southern Sierra’s textured granite walls, Double Ospreys Right delivers an excellent combination of traditional protection, technical moves, and the elemental challenge of a natural line. Whether prepping for afternoon climbs or planning a series of routes in the area, this climb stands out for its clear beta and satisfying vertical gain, giving adventurers a tangible connection to California’s mountain spirit.

Climber Safety

The bulge section can have loose rock near the dike crystals, so wearing a helmet is crucial. The bolts provide reliable protection, but careful gear placements are needed. Be sure to assess rock stability especially after wet weather.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the morning sun on the face before it shifts to shade.

Focus on delicate footwork around the dike crystals to maintain balance.

Use smaller cams for the tricky placements above bolts.

Double-check your rappel setup at the anchors; the descent is straightforward but exposed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating accommodates a moderate level of technical effort, with the bulge feature offering the primary crux requiring firm crack technique and balance. The grade feels true to standard Yosemite Decimal System ratings — it’s approachable for confident trad climbers and offers a smooth transition compared to nearby routes with stiffer grades.

Gear Requirements

Bringing a standard trad rack with an emphasis on smaller cams is essential, complemented by the bolts that ease the protection along the bulge and through sections near the dike crystals. A helmet is recommended due to occasional loose rock near the bulge feature.

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Tags

trad
one pitch
granite
dike crystals
bulge move
Southern Sierra
protected rap anchors