"Don’t be fooled by its rough blocky appearance—Double Lead on Camel Wall is a perfect first step into traditional climbing. This approachable 70-foot pitch delivers solid protection and practical rope management challenges amid inviting natural features."
Double Lead on Camel Wall offers a practical introduction to trad climbing wrapped in an unassuming, blocky facade that challenges preconceived notions. Situated just left of the prominent Harlequin arch on Mount Nemo's Camel Wall, this 70-foot single pitch route rewards climbers with a hands-on lesson in rope management and gear placement amid straightforward but compelling terrain. From the base, the wall appears tough and uninviting—its rugged right-facing edges and chunky holds suggest rawness rather than finesse. Yet, as you start the climb, the features shift subtly to left-facing cracks and edges that gently guide the ascent. This route balances grit and grace, encouraging climbers to navigate with intent rather than brute force.
The approach to the top introduces a tactical element: a careful traverse to the right leads to reliable Fixe anchors that close out the climb safely. The final moves demand clear communication and timing, especially for the follower, who must efficiently clean gear before the traverse section, as retreat on rappel can become tricky with leftover protection. For those new to trad, Double Lead is a solid playground to build confidence with standard rack placements, testing your ability to read the rock and manage your rope during subtle directional changes.
This climb’s setting on Mount Nemo situates you within a classic Canadian outdoor experience. The rock’s texture is coarse enough to offer secure footholds, while its contours push you toward thoughtful footwork. The surrounding forest encourages morning ascents to take advantage of the cooling shade, and the moderate exposure keeps the climb approachable without sacrificing a sense of vertical adventure.
Plan your trip with sturdy footwear suited for edged granite, and bring a traditional rack featuring small to medium cams—these will fit well in the natural pockets and cracks found here. Hydrate well; although the climb is short, the approach trail can warm up quickly under the summer sun. Aim for early to mid-morning starts to enjoy the quiet forest ambiance and avoid crowds that peak later in the day.
Whether you’re a trad novice or brushing up on basic rack and rope skills, Double Lead on Camel Wall combines mental engagement with accessible rock — a straightforward route that builds practical skills against a backdrop of rugged Ontario climbing.
Care is needed when cleaning your last piece before traversing right to the anchors—once past this point, reversing or retreating by rappel becomes more complex if gear is left behind. Ensure your second is prepared for this section to avoid complications.
Bring early morning start for cool shaded approach and climb conditions.
Have a strong follower able to clean gear efficiently before the edge traverse.
Use small to medium cams to best protect the left-facing features.
Hydrate well; the approach trail can warm quickly under direct sun.
The route requires standard trad gear focusing on small to medium cams that fit the left-facing cracks and pockets. Have a solid rack ready and be prepared for careful rope management especially near the top traverse to anchors.
Upload your photos of Double Lead and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.