HomeClimbingDouble Jeopardy

Double Jeopardy Trad Climb at Bell Buttress Massif

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
chimney
hand cracks
multi-pitch
shade
boulder canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Double Jeopardy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Double Jeopardy offers a shaded, engaging 5.9 trad climb within Boulder’s Bell Buttress Massif. This three-pitch route invites climbers to navigate chimneys, stemming moves, and wander through classic granite terrain, making it a hidden gem for those who enjoy technical variety without overcommitment."

Double Jeopardy Trad Climb at Bell Buttress Massif

Double Jeopardy offers a compelling 5.9 trad climb tucked into the shaded recesses of Bell Buttress Massif in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. This route quietly rewards those willing to navigate its initial gritty pitch, where an overhanging chimney and its adjoining hand cracks challenge both technique and resolve. From the moment you step onto the rock, the climb invites a tactile dance of jams and stemming, pushing you through the bulging chimney where every hold demands attention and control. The gear placements here require a keen eye—wired nuts and cams up to 3 inches will secure your protection as you work past the chimney's tight margins.

Moving past the technical crux, the route eases into a wandering terrain that leads right toward the upper section of the popular Cosmosis climb. The ledge belay after the first pitch offers a moment to breathe, taking in the quiet flow of the forested canyon below and feeling the cool shade filter through the rock. The second and third pitches continue right and upward, maintaining a balance between steady climbing and route-finding, connecting you with anchors that intersect with neighboring climbs like The Spoils or Stu's bolt route.

The access to this climb is straightforward for anyone familiar with Boulder’s granite walls. The walk-in winds through patches of pine and scrub, cooling the skin as the rock blocks out much of the afternoon sun. Plan your climb in the morning to make the most of the shade cast by Bell Buttress, especially when the summer sun climbs high. Footwear with solid edging and comfortable fit is essential for the chimneys and stemming sections, where precise foot placements reduce fatigue. Bringing double sets of wired nuts and cams up to size 3 inches will cover your protection needs, as natural placements dominate and bolts are sparse, placed mainly on adjacent lines.

Whether chasing a solid 5.9 warmup or craving a shaded Boulder canyon adventure off the beaten track, Double Jeopardy efficiently blends technical variety with classic granite features. It stands as a worthy pick for climbers eager to move with both mind and muscle through rock that demands respect without punishing beyond reason. Keep an eye on conditions during precipitation or after winter snow, as the chimney section can retain dampness longer, making friction tricky. As always in Boulder’s crag-rich environment, maintain a low impact approach and enjoy the steady hum of nature’s quiet company.

This route is a strong mid-grade trad offering, distinguished by its dynamic moves in tight corners and generous belay ledges, providing both challenge and comfort. Pack carefully, move deliberately, and embrace the subtle shifts of light and relief as this climb unfolds in the shadowed heart of Bell Buttress.

Climber Safety

The bulging chimney requires careful footwork and secure gear placement. The rock can hold moisture after precipitation, increasing slipperiness — approach with caution in damp conditions. Anchors intersect with neighboring climbs, so be mindful when moving between pitches.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of Bell Buttress’s natural shade during summer.

Wear snug, precise climbing shoes for chimney jams and stemming moves.

Check recent weather; the chimney can stay damp after rain or snow.

Bring double sets of wired nuts plus cams up to 3” for confident protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Double Jeopardy leans into classic Boulder granite trad style with some tight stemming and jam sequences that may feel a bit stiff if you’re new to chimney climbing. It sits comfortably in the mid-grade slab compared to nearby climbs like Cosmosis, but the overhanging bulge and forced route-finding give it a slightly more sustained challenge.

Gear Requirements

Double sets of wired nuts paired with cams up to 3 inches are essential. Natural gear placements dominate, especially around the bulging chimney and stemming sections. Limited bolts are present, mainly on adjacent routes.

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Tags

trad
chimney
hand cracks
multi-pitch
shade
boulder canyon