HomeClimbingDouble Feature

Double Feature at Mount Nemo: A Two-Pitch Trad Adventure

Hamilton, Ontario Canada
thin corners
crack climbing
two-pitch
belay anchors
moderate protection
southern exposure
Mount Nemo
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Double Feature
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Double Feature presents a compact two-pitch trad climb on Mount Nemo’s rugged limestone cliffs. With technical corners and a clean crack system, it offers an engaging challenge balanced by manageable protection and stunning regional views."

Double Feature at Mount Nemo: A Two-Pitch Trad Adventure

Double Feature offers a precise blend of technical climbing and natural grace on the ridges of Mount Nemo, a cornerstone of Ontario's climbing scene. This two-pitch route demands respect with its sharp corners and careful movements, delivering a satisfying challenge for trad climbers who enjoy moderate difficulty and steady exposure. Beginning just left of the well-known Access route, the first pitch climbs thin corners that test your ability to read subtle holds and place reliable gear on solid, sometimes sparse protection. Anchoring at a bolt and pin belay provides a secure resting point before moving into the second pitch. Here, the climb follows a prominent 5.8 crack that arcs right from the ledge, guiding you efficiently toward the established Mephisto anchors.

The setting at Mount Nemo is unmistakably raw and exposed, offering sweeping views over the Golden Horseshoe’s rolling hills and forestry. The rock carries a gritty texture—a perfect partner for steady footwork and deliberate hand jams. Climbers will appreciate the balance of technicality mixed with the opportunity to move fluidly, especially on the second pitch’s crack system. This route demands a solid rack with a range of cams and nuts, as opportunities for placements appear regularly but require thoughtful placement.

Planning for this climb includes aiming for morning to early afternoon ascents, when the south-facing wall balances sun and shade, keeping conditions comfortable through the climbing window. The approach is straightforward—a brisk 10-minute walk from the parking area carries you over rocky terrain with sporadic trees, familiarizing you with the echoing calls of the forest and the occasional rustle of wildlife. Footwear with good grip and ankle support is essential, as the approach trail features uneven sections and loose rocks near the base.

As you climb, be mindful of the thin protection spots on pitch one that challenge your confidence and commitment. This route is a solid choice for climbers looking to step up from sport routes, as it bridges polished face climbing with the traditional placement demands. With a grade of 5.9, it sits comfortably in the moderate range, though the “R” rating points to a crux that requires focus and precise execution.

Your descent is equally practical: rappel from Mephisto anchors brings you safely back to the ledge below, from where an easy scramble leads back to the base. For those eyeing the greater Mount Nemo area, Double Feature acts as a versatile introduction to the location’s rich mix of sport and trad climbs. This climb blends commitment with manageability—perfect for a day when you want to test your trad skills without venturing into overly committing territory.

Climber Safety

Take extra caution on the first pitch where protection zones are thin and climbers must trust sparse placements. Always double-check gear placements before committing and avoid climbing in wet conditions as the limestone can become slippery.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sensitive toes for thin corner work.

Bring a rack with a range of cams from small to medium sizes for best placement options.

Rappel carefully from the Mephisto anchors at the top to descend safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9R rating signals a route that isn’t over-graded but includes a few tricky moves where protection is less frequent, raising the mental game. It feels moderate physically but demands calm, precise placements. Compared to local climbs like Access (5.10a sport), Double Feature offers a trad alternative with moderate risk, ideal for climbers progressing from sport to trad routes.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covering small to medium cams and nuts will suffice. Protection placements require care on the first pitch due to thinner corners. Fixed bolt and pin anchor offers a reliable belay station.

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Tags

thin corners
crack climbing
two-pitch
belay anchors
moderate protection
southern exposure
Mount Nemo