5.10a, Sport
Poway
California ,United States
"Double Dragon Arete offers 90 feet of engaging 5.10a climbing on a sharp arete where balance and technique meet steep, powerful moves. With solid bolt protection and a tricky line, this route is a rewarding challenge for climbers seeking a lively solo pitch near San Diego."
Standing at the edge of Ramona Wall, Double Dragon Arete commands attention with its striking, knife-edge profile. This 90-foot single-pitch sport climb tests both balance and technique as you navigate a mix of slippery and sticky rock. The route’s character shifts from careful, balancy footwork along less steep sections to a demanding, steep bulge that forces a concentrated effort. The rock challenges your senses—not just your hands—inviting you to read the wall carefully and trust subtler edges while feeling the texture beneath your fingertips. The inscrutable line waits quietly at the intersection of caution and commitment, teasing climbers with an elusive path that rewards patience and precision.
The climb offers a relatively straightforward protection scheme, bolted with eight solid anchors spaced to reinforce confidence in the moves. An optional yellow Alien cam adds a welcome layer, especially near the top where the bolts grow sparse and the exposure mounts. While the runout here isn’t daunting for experienced climbers, it nudges your mental game into gear, making gear placement strategy as critical as crisp foot placement.
Accessing Double Dragon Arete involves a moderate approach across Powell Crags’ dry chaparral slopes, set against the ever-present Southern California sun. Expect a hike of about 15 to 20 minutes from the parking area, following a well-worn trail beneath golden scrub and scattered pines. The view from the base rewards your effort—looking out over rolling foothills and the distant buzz of San Diego’s sprawl. Early morning or late afternoon light slices across the rock face, emphasizing textures and casting shadows that help decode holds.
This climb sits rock-solid in the 5.10a grade but wears a character that sometimes feels slightly softer depending on your balance skills. For those comfortable in delicate footwork and sequence reading, the difficulty is approachable, but the steeper section demands attention and forethought. Compared to other lines in the Ramona Wall area, Double Dragon Arete blends the steady run-no-fall style with a pinch of adrenaline, making it perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their technique with measurable risk.
Local climbers advise the use of sticky-soled shoes for maximum grip on the varied rock surfaces. Hydration is key, especially in warmer months when the sun drains moisture quickly. The route’s south-facing aspect means afternoon shade comes late—plan your climb early or as the sun dips to avoid overheating. A lightweight helmet is also recommended, as wind and occasional loose debris remind you that nature holds its own rhythm here.
Descent is straightforward: a single 60-meter rappel from fixed anchors brings climbers safely back to the base. The rappel anchors are reliable and easy to locate, but climbers should avoid lingering on the ledges where loose rock collects. This area is part of a larger collection of climbs on Stellar Walls—a rugged expanse treasured for its mixture of sport and trad routes, with sweeping views and a wilderness feel just outside the city.
Double Dragon Arete stands out as an excellent choice for sport climbers seeking an engaging lead that melds technical movement with a touch of exposure. Its balanced demands and accessible length make it ideal for climbers aiming to push into harder grades while enjoying the Southern California rock climbing scene’s unique charm.
The top section features wider bolt spacing that requires careful gear placement with an optional cam. Loose rock and dry brush on the approach highlight the need for attention and a helmet to protect from occasional falling debris.
Start early to avoid the heat on the south-facing wall.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for the balance-dependent sections.
Bring a lightweight helmet due to occasional falling debris.
Hydrate well before the climb; shade arrives late in the afternoon.
Eight well-placed bolts protect the line comfortably, with an optional yellow Alien cam recommended for the upper section where bolt spacing increases. Sticky shoes enhance grip on the varied rock texture.
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