HomeClimbingDouble Agent

Double Agent: A Sharp Sport Climb in the Santa Monica Mountains

Los Angeles,California ,United States
sport climbing
short route
technical moves
Santa Monica Mountains
shaded rest
open shuts
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Double Agent
Aspect
South Facing

Double Agent

5.10a, Sport

Los Angeles

California ,United States

Overview

"Double Agent offers a concentrated burst of sport climbing challenge on a crisp 40-foot face in the Santa Monica Mountains. With sharp moves and reliable bolts, it’s a perfect route for climbers looking to refine technique in a stunning Southern California setting."

Double Agent: A Sharp Sport Climb in the Santa Monica Mountains

Tucked into the rugged expanse of the Santa Monica Mountains, Double Agent offers climbers a brief but intense encounter on a compact 40-foot wall. The route launches just ten feet downhill from the left edge of a widely visible rock formation, inviting climbers to engage in a steady push upward and rightward toward a crucial resting spot below the final bulge. The wall’s features demand precise footwork and confident grip as you navigate the transition around the corner, where the angle tightens and the rock's texture calls for sharp focus. The protection consists of four bolts supplemented by two open shuts, carefully spaced to support a dynamic yet accessible push, typical of a 5.10a sport climb.

Being part of the Lookout area, the route sits within the sprawling Los Angeles Basin’s lively climbing scene but retains a sense of natural quietude. The approach is straightforward along well-trod paths threading through chaparral and sparse oaks, with the sun filtering through the canopy and reflecting off the sandstone’s earth tones. The ascent is short but accurately graded — climbers should expect a modest challenge that balances technical sequences with moments to recover.

For those planning to send Double Agent, timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon during spring or fall can offer cooler conditions and shaded rest points. The southern exposed face gains heat quickly in summer, and the rock can feel slick with coastal humidity. Proper footwear with solid edge control is recommended to handle the subtle footholds that matter in this narrow route. Hydration and a light pack are ideal, given the relatively brief approach.

Double Agent's appeal lies in its crisp moves and the careful climbing it demands over its modest length. It’s a fine option for climbers looking to sharpen sport climbing skills in a location that’s accessible yet offers a genuine taste of Southern California’s diverse climbing spots. As you climb, listen to the breeze brushing through the ridges, and feel the rock shift beneath your fingers — the mountain is alive, and this route dares you to rise with it.

Climber Safety

While the bolts and open shuts are well maintained, the short length leaves little room for error—focus on clean clips and maintain control on the vertical sections. The final bulge requires careful balance and a controlled movement to avoid swinging falls; inspect footholds for moss or sand before climbing.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat on the south-facing wall.

Wear shoes with precise edging support to handle subtle footholds.

Bring sufficient water — the brief approach doesn’t require a heavy pack but staying hydrated is key.

Check bolt condition before leading; bolts and shuts are solid but not overhanging beyond sport standards.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true to scale, offering a punchy crux around the final bulge that tests finger strength and movement precision. While the route is short, its technical climbing delivers a stiff sequence that rewards climbers comfortable with vertical transitions and stable foot placements. Compared to other routes in the Lookout area, Double Agent sits in the middle difficulty range and is an essential test for those upgrading from 5.9.

Gear Requirements

Equip yourself with a light rack focusing on quickdraws compatible with the four bolts and two open shuts. Expect standard sport climbing hardware without complicating trad placements, allowing you to focus on technique rather than gear management.

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Tags

sport climbing
short route
technical moves
Santa Monica Mountains
shaded rest
open shuts