"Dos Peros Negros delivers a textured single-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree, blending face and lieback moves across 100 feet of varied rock. This route combines accessible protection with a 5.9 rating, rewarding climbers with both technical challenges and desert panorama."
Dos Peros Negros offers an inviting introduction to the varied trad climbing found along Pep Boys Crag in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park. At 100 feet, this single-pitch route blends face climbing with liebacking moves on textured rock that demands both finesse and trust in your gear. The climb threads its way through sun-baked cracks and pockets, inviting climbers to engage with the rock’s natural features without overwhelming commitment. Expect a physical dance between finger jams and delicate footwork, set against the backdrop of Joshua Tree’s iconic desert landscape where winds whisper ancient stories and the sun casts sharp shadows across rugged stone.
Originally known as “Manny, Moe, & Jack” in earlier guidebooks, Dos Peros Negros has stood the test of time as a favorite for those seeking something approachable yet compelling. The route fits well in a standard rack, making protection straightforward without skimping on security. Its 5.9 rating balances technical moves with solid rests, though the climb comes alive in its shifting holds and subtly challenging sequences that reward attentive foot placement.
Approaching the crag is a short stroll from roadside parking, making it accessible for a quick morning session or to serve as a warm-up for longer adventures in Joshua Tree. The approach trail cuts through sandy desert scrub and sparse trees, hinting at the silence and space awaiting above. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon keeps the rock cool and shadows long, preserving grip and comfort under the desert sun’s relentless heat.
Protective gear includes a standard rack, with a focus on smaller cams for the tighter cracks and a few mid-sized pieces to cover the wider sections. Fixed anchors simplify the descent, letting climbers rappel safely back to the base. As the wall faces east, it basks in morning light but benefits from shade as the day progresses.
Dos Peros Negros exemplifies the blend of adventure, approachability, and technical engagement that defines Joshua Tree’s climbing scene. Whether you’re dialing in your trad skills or looking for a concise route with character, this climb offers a hands-on experience set within one of California’s most enduring climbing landscapes.
Watch for rockfall along the access path and stay alert during hot afternoons when dehydration risks rise. The fixed anchor is reliable but inspect it before use, especially after storms or heavy winds.
Start early to avoid the desert heat and enjoy cooler rock.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sensitive toe smearing for textured face sections.
Double-check fixed anchors before rappelling down the route.
Carry plenty of water and sunscreen; desert sun intensifies quickly.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams for the variety of cracks. The placements are generally solid, with no peculiar protection challenges, making setup straightforward.
Upload your photos of Dos Peros Negros and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.