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Dos Chi Chis: A Bold Sport Climb in Joshua Tree's Wonderland

Joshua Tree, California United States
slab
sport
multi-pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
smears
exposed
Length: 240 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Dos Chi Chis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dos Chi Chis tests climbers with technical slab and insecure smears across two pitches in Joshua Tree’s remote Wonderland area. Rewarding effort with stellar desert views, this moderate sport climb stands out for its solid protection and quiet setting."

Dos Chi Chis: A Bold Sport Climb in Joshua Tree's Wonderland

Dos Chi Chis challenges climbers with a compelling blend of technical slab and delicate smears, set within the harsh desert terrain of Joshua Tree National Park’s Wonderland area. This two-pitch sport route offers a distinctive experience: the first pitch pushes you up a steep slab rated 5.9, demanding steady footwork and calm precision as you navigate intermittent patina and eight well-spaced bolts. The crux sits past an intermediate belay—two additional bolts lead you to a roomy ledge where you pause to take in the expansive desert outlook. This area alone serves as a mental rest before Pitch 2 tests your ability on its vague arete. Here, five bolts guide you across insecure smears at 5.10a difficulty, requiring confident edging and trust in your technique. The exposure increases as you inch left and up toward the summit, rewarded by panoramic views that stretch across the Wonderland of Rocks, Saddle Rocks, and even the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base.

The route’s protection consists entirely of 3/8" bolts, spaced thoughtfully but demanding attentive clipping and movement, especially on the second pitch. The area’s rugged remoteness heightens the experience—approach trails are sparse and partially rugged, placing a premium on planning and self-sufficiency. Descending involves three rappels with a single 60-meter rope: from the summit to the large ledge, then down to the intermediate belay, and finally back to the base, each stage requiring solid rope handling skills.

For any climber seeking a moderate sport climb away from crowded sectors, Dos Chi Chis offers a balance of technical challenge, solid protection, and a sense of desert wilderness. The climb’s openness invites a clear-headed approach, while the views from the top provide a well-earned moment of reflection beneath wide-open skies. Hydration and sun protection are essential, as shade is scarce on this granite face, with midday heat amplifying the desert’s unforgiving character. Early morning starts are advised to beat the heat and secure calmer conditions on the rock.

Dos Chi Chis is more than just a route—it's an invitation to test your slab instincts on some of Joshua Tree’s finest and less frequented terrain, where every foot placement counts, and the landscape dares you to look farther. Whether you’re ticking pitches or chasing your next 5.10 project, this climb rewards preparation with both mental and physical gains, ensuring your desert day is as productive as it is memorable.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally reliable, the smears on pitch two can feel insecure—careful foot placement is critical to avoid slips. The remote location means self-sufficiency is key, and rappelling requires attention to anchor setup and rope length.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches2
Length240 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the slab and exposure.

Bring ample water and sun protection; shade is minimal on the face.

Efficiency on clip placements helps conserve energy on the longer pitches.

Double-check rappel setups and rope length; all three rappels require solid rope management.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.10a, Dos Chi Chis splits its difficulty between a steady 5.9 slab and a more demanding smear section on pitch two. The crux requires steady footwork, balance, and trust in marginal holds. This rating feels solid for the area, with the second pitch pushing into true technical climbing territory compared to many local moderate routes.

Gear Requirements

The route relies on 3/8" bolts throughout—10 on the first pitch with a 2-bolt anchor and 5 on the second pitch also ending on a 2-bolt anchor. A single 60-meter rope is sufficient to complete the climb and full descent rappels.

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Tags

slab
sport
multi-pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
smears
exposed