"Door Jam is a focused trad route on December Wall that offers a powerful 40-foot pitch loaded with hands-on jams and essential gear placements. Perfect as a warm-up, this climb sets the stage for more challenging climbs in St. Vrain Canyon with clear, practical beta and a solid 5.9- rating."
Door Jam stands out as a compact but engaging traditional climb that demands both focus and finesse amid the rugged backdrop of St. Vrain Canyon. This single-pitch, 40-foot route delivers a physical warm-up before tackling some of the more demanding lines on December Wall. The approach takes you into a narrow section of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, where granite walls rise sharply, their cool gray faces reflecting the afternoon light and inviting climbers to test their skills against textured holds and subtle jams.
The route itself requires a thoughtful sequence of jams and smears, with a steady rhythm that encourages a climber to find flow rather than brute force. The key placements—a crucial #5 cam near the top and a #4 down low—are essential for protecting the climb, especially around a distinct chockstone that guards the final few moves. A long sling is recommended to reduce rope drag as you navigate the top section, ensuring safety without sacrificing fluid movement.
Despite its short length, Door Jam demands attention to gear and technique. The middle section requires a red Camalot, but be prepared: it can interfere with holds, so patience and creative placement are vital. This climb offers a hands-on connection with the rock, the kind of experience that sharpens crack climbing skills and sets the tone for longer undertakings on December Wall.
The setting amplifies the appeal—surrounded by the raw energy of St. Vrain canyons, the wind plays through the pines on the canyon rims, and the crisp mountain air sharpens awareness. Climbers here will benefit from solid approach shoes, plenty of water, and timing their ascent to avoid the harsh midday sun, as this south-facing wall warms up quickly. The walk to the base is straightforward but demands attention near the creek crossings and uneven terrain.
With only five recorded ascents reflected in local climbing logs, Door Jam offers a somewhat quiet yet rewarding experience for trad climbers seeking a dependable 5.9- test and preparation for tougher lines nearby. The route combines practical gear requirements with an invigorating climb that both challenges and prepares you for the variety of climbs December Wall provides.
Prepare well, bring the right gear, and absorb the canyon’s sturdy embrace. Door Jam will test your basics and reward you with a solid sense of accomplishment before you move on to the next St. Vrain adventure.
Watch out for gear placements around the chockstone near the top—improper slinging can lead to awkward falls. Also, the granite can be sharp with loose debris around the base, so wearing gloves and a helmet is advised. Avoid climbing after heavy rains due to slippery approaches and unstable rockfall potential.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on this south-facing wall.
Wear sturdy approach shoes to navigate uneven terrain and creek crossings.
Pack a long sling for easier rope management around the chockstone near the top.
Double-check your #4 and #5 cams before starting — these are vital for confident protection.
Key gear includes a #5 cam near the top for crucial protection, a #4 cam for mid-route security, a long sling to manage rope drag around a chockstone, and a red Camalot for the middle section that must be placed carefully to avoid interfering with holds.
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