"Don't Think Twice weaves technical crack climbing into a bold roof sequence, delivering strong protection on solid Joshua Tree granite. This approachable 5.9 trad pitch appeals to climbers seeking tight gear placements paired with a challenging roof and desert views."
Don't Think Twice offers a compelling trad climbing experience in Joshua Tree’s Lost Horse Area, inviting climbers into a landscape defined by rugged rock and raw exposure. This single-pitch, 60-foot route presents a unique blend of challenges reminiscent of classic routes like Super Roof and Moosedog Tower, making it a worthy objective for those ready to test their crack climbing skills in a distinctive desert setting. From the very start, the approach crack demands precision and the careful placement of medium-sized cams and a few larger stoppers, setting the tone for a climb where protection and technique converge.
The rock quality here is impressive—solid and textured, giving climbers confidence while maneuvering around the roof section where bomber protection is crucial. As you reach beneath the roof, the 2.5-inch cam placements offer security, but the moves require a keen eye and steady body control. The roof itself feels alive, pushing gently back as you establish a position and sink a 4-inch cam to lock in your safety. Crossing onto the face requires a moment of adjustment, with a handful of easier moves leading to a comfortable belay stance situated just up and to the left of the roof crack.
Protection on this climb revolves around “standard” gear up to 4 inches. The placements are bomber but demand attention to prevent the rope from snagging, especially as it snakes through the roof crack. The line avoids excessive runouts while maintaining a sense of adventure and flow, making it accessible for climbers ready to manage gear placement while moving confidently.
Access to the climb is straightforward, with the approach hike winding over familiar Joshua Tree terrain marked by worn rock and sparse vegetation typical of the high desert. The descent is just as practical—a short scramble off climbers’ left from the top, following natural ledges and faint trails back down. The area is known for its stark beauty and openness, so it’s wise to plan climbs during cooler parts of the day when the sun hasn’t baked the rock, typically mornings or late afternoons.
Lost Horse boasts expansive views framed by massive monoliths and desert scrub, grounding climbers in the vastness of Joshua Tree’s wild charm. The route is modest in length yet rich in character, perfect for those seeking a solid trad challenge that combines technical crack skills with manageable exposure. With moderate difficulty and reliable protection, Don't Think Twice stands as a practical choice for trad climbers longing to sharpen their skills in one of the desert’s most iconic climbing areas. Prepare well: bring medium and large cams, stay hydrated, and watch your rope path through the roof. This climb rewards steady hands and calm nerves with a satisfying, well-earned summit experience.
Watch the rope path through the roof crack carefully to prevent it from getting stuck. The descent involves a scramble that can be tricky if loose rock is present, so test holds before committing.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon sun and heat on the route.
Keep an eye on your rope in the roof crack to avoid snagging.
Use medium-sized cams to set solid pieces on the approach crack before tackling the roof.
Descend climbers’ left via a short, easy scramble on worn rock.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 4 inches, including medium cams for the approach crack and large cams for the roof section. Stopper placements complement the cams well.
Upload your photos of Don't Think Twice and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.