"A brief but technical climb at Mine Hole Crag, Don't Pull on the Udder offers a mix of trad and sport protection through a thrutchy crack and right-facing corner. It’s an excellent quick route for climbers seeking focused technique in Boulder’s quieter climbing pockets."
Don't Pull on the Udder is a succinct yet rewarding climb tucked into Mine Hole Crag, just moments from Boulder’s busy outdoor scene. Starting a few steps right of Bull Fight beneath a commanding pine, this route begins with a right-facing corner that demands precise body positioning and calculated effort. The climb then transitions into a thrutchy crack section, where careful jamming technique is essential to maintain momentum and avoid unnecessary strain. While brief, the route offers a textured experience—its modest length distills technical moves and subtle balance into a condensed challenge.
Mine Hole Crag itself stands as a quiet counterpoint to the more frequented corridor climbs in Boulder Canyon, providing an intimate setting where forest scents mingle with crisp mountain air. The large pine at the base signals the start, its needles whispering in the breeze as climbers size up the line ahead. Rock quality here is solid, though not flawless—expect some subtle wear, but nothing that compromises safety or fun.
Protection on Don't Pull on the Udder reflects a hybrid experience: the route is primarily bolted with three fixed bolts leading to a chain anchor, ensuring confident clipping spots along the way. However, small wired nuts add an extra layer of security between bolts one and two, rewarding those who carry a well-chosen rack. This blend of traditional gear territory with sport anchors gives climbers a chance to sharpen their placement skills amidst controlled protection.
At a 5.8 rating, the climb sits comfortably in the moderate difficulty range but deserves respect for its physical demands and the cruxy crack sequence near its middle. The route moves efficiently with one pitch, making it an ideal quick adventure for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills or warm up before diving into Boulder Canyon’s longer, more committing faces.
Because it’s a short climb, timing your ascent around midday allows the sun to warm the rock, easing chilly fingers in cooler months while avoiding overheating in summer’s peak heat. Access to Mine Hole Crag is straightforward with well-maintained trails threading through mixed pine and oak woodlands, presenting a serene approach that primes the senses for climbing.
Climbers should come prepared with finger tape, suitable crack gloves if desired, and a rack inclusive of small nuts alongside quickdraws. Hydrating well before and after the climb is essential as Boulder’s mountain air tends to dry the throat quickly. While the route doesn't offer sweeping views or long-lasting exposure, it delivers focused technical climbing within a pleasant forested retreat—proof that quality need not be measured in vertical feet alone.
Don't Pull on the Udder may not be the headliner for every trip, but its compact intensity and mix of protection styles make it an appealing option for those curious about Boulder’s diverse climbing landscape. The short approach, moderate grade, and blend of trad and sport elements create an inviting space to hone technique, savor mountain quiet, and engage with the rock on its own terms.
While the climb is well protected with bolts, the placement of small wired nuts between bolts requires attention to gear placement quality. The rock is generally solid but stay alert for loose flakes near the corner start.
The start is marked by a large pine tree next to Bull Fight; watch for this natural landmark.
Bring finger tape or crack gloves to protect your hands during the thrutchy crack section.
Approach trails are well maintained and take about 10-15 minutes from the parking area.
Climb mid-day for optimal rock temperature, especially in cooler months.
The route features three bolts and a chain anchor, with opportunities to place small wired nuts between the first and second bolt for added protection. A rack including small nuts and quickdraws is recommended.
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