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Don't Look at Me! on Blue Velvet Buttress

Los Angeles, California United States
thin edges
pockets
overlap crux
short approach
sport climb
technical face
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Don't Look at Me!
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Don't Look at Me! challenges climbers with thin edges and occasional pockets on a steep face, culminating in a small overlap crux near the top. Located in the Angeles National Forest, this sport climb offers a focused, technical experience just outside Los Angeles."

Don't Look at Me! on Blue Velvet Buttress

Don't Look at Me! stakes its claim on Blue Velvet Buttress with a vertical boldness that demands respect and precision. Climbing this single-pitch sport route means embracing the challenge of thin edges and selective pockets that test your finger strength and footwork on a near-vertical wall. The rock’s grit feels alive under your fingertips, each hold a critical note in a compact but rewarding ascent. About 45 feet up, a small but clutch overlap awaits—an inviting crux that offers a moment of intense focus before the anchors come into view. Blue Velvet Buttress is located within the Angeles National Forest, a rugged slice of wilderness providing both respite and raw exposure just beyond the urban sprawl of the Los Angeles Basin. The approach snips away any fuss: a short, straightforward hike drops you close to the base, where the forest's quiet shadows frame the ascent.

This route’s protection consists of six bolts with closed shut rings, reassuring climbers yet demanding technical precision to clip safely and smoothly. The placement of bolts encourages a committed climb, where hesitation could mean missing the crucial rhythm necessary for each move. The route’s 5.10a rating implies a climb that pushes beyond beginner limits, but one that rewards disciplined technique. Because of its face features—mostly thin edges and pockets—footwork and balance take precedence here, making it a gratifying challenge for intermediate climbers or those sharpening their sport skills.

For anyone planning a trip, timing matters: Blue Velvet Buttress catches early morning sun that warms the rock, making it especially appealing in cooler seasons. Afternoon shade tumbles in from the west, cooling the wall as temperatures rise. Bring shoes with sticky rubber that can grip delicate edges, and pack a light water bottle for the quick approach and to stay refreshed between climbs. While the route is short, it’s concentrated effort, perfect for a half-day session with time left to explore the forest trails or nearby climbs.

Don't Look at Me! offers more than just a test of climbing skill—it delivers a moment of focus against the backdrop of a wild foothill environment. Its mix of technical moves and reliable protection create an enticing outlet for sport climbers looking to blend challenge with access, all within a short drive from Los Angeles. Whether knocking out a warm-up or chasing a sharp send, the route stands ready to etch another story onto the Blue Velvet Buttress rock face.

Climber Safety

While the bolts provide dependable protection, the closed shut rings demand careful clipping to avoid rope drag or entanglement. The narrow approach leaves little room for error on foot placements, so keep concentrated before and during the climb. Also, watch for loose rock near the overlap, especially after wet weather.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy morning warmth on the rock before afternoon shade cools the face.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for better grip on thin edges.

Bring a light hydration pack—short approach but staying hydrated boosts performance.

Clip the bolts carefully; closed shuttles require deliberate, secure clipping.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating for Don't Look at Me! accurately reflects its sustained technical demands without excessive power moves. Thin edges and pocket sequences require solid footwork and finger strength, making the grade feel spot-on for intermediate climbers looking to refine sport climbing skills. Compared to nearby routes, the crux overlap adds a subtle but distinct bump of intensity that tests focus more than raw power.

Gear Requirements

The route is equipped with six bolts and closed shut rings, providing solid protection in critical spots. Clipping smoothly and maintaining rhythm between bolts is key to avoiding a pendulum or runout. Bring shoes with precise edging capability and stay light to master the thin handholds and pockets.

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Tags

thin edges
pockets
overlap crux
short approach
sport climb
technical face