"A compact, focused sport climb squeezed beside Auntie Gravity, Don't Believe the Hype challenges with technical moves and close-quarters routing. At 5.11a, it demands precision and mental grit in the bustling Smoke Bluffs."
In the heart of Squamish’s renowned Smoke Bluffs lies 'Don't Believe the Hype,' a single-pitch sport climb that challenges your skill and discernment as much as your strength. At 60 feet, it sits uncomfortably close to Auntie Gravity, creating a tight corridor of rock where every move demands attention. This route’s 5.11a rating brings a sharp edge to the climb, requiring precise footwork and commitment on holds that hold stories of the many climbers who’ve tested their limits here.
The rock itself is solid, the granite offering subtle variations that force you to engage with the wall intimately. Three bolts protect the sequence, but the spacing means you can’t rely solely on gear; steadiness and mental focus fill the gaps between quickdraws. The proximity to Auntie Gravity lends a crowded feel, as if the rock faces themselves are whispering to be the center of attention. However, this route firmly stakes its claim, refusing to be overshadowed by its storied neighbor.
Approaching the climb, expect a short but mildly awkward walk through forested edges marked by ticker pines and moss-laden boulders. The Smoke Bluffs is a hub for climbers of various abilities, so the path is well-traveled but demands attention for loose debris underfoot. Timing your ascent early in the day rewards you with dappled sunlight that warms the face, while afternoons turn the wall cooler and shadier, lending welcome relief on warmer days.
Though the route tempts with its promise of fun moves, caution is advised: the proximity to the adjacent crack of Auntie Gravity can confuse the routing, and straying too close might pull you off your line or into holds that don’t serve this climb’s flow. The climb’s rock and bolt placement recommend climbing with a firm approach to protection—your clipping efficiency will be put to the test. Given the short nature of the route, gym climbers stepping into the real rock will find this a fitting introduction to handling outdoor sport climbs requiring mental engagement as much as physical strength.
Descending is straightforward with a single rope rappel from fixed anchors. However, take care on the rappels and surrounding rock to avoid brushing against the adjacent route or causing gear to snag. The Smoke Bluffs provides a captivating backdrop of coniferous forest and sweeping views toward the rugged coastal mountains, reminding you that while the climb is compact, the adventure is expansive.
Whether you’re looking to sharpen your 5.11 skills or simply curious about what lies next to one of Squamish’s classic cracks, 'Don't Believe the Hype' offers a focused test that balances technicality with location. It may lack the show-stopping moves of its neighbors, but it rewards those who bring concentration, respect for the rock, and a steady cadence to each move.
Watch your line carefully to avoid incorrect holds leading you into the adjacent crack, and take care clipping bolts spaced with some runouts. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so choose footwear with good traction.
Stay focused to avoid drifting into Auntie Gravity’s crack, which can disrupt your sequence.
Approach early in the day for warmer sunlit holds before the wall cools in the afternoon shade.
Wear sturdy approach shoes as the access trail has loose rocks and pine needles.
Use a single 60m rope for both ascent and straightforward rappels.
Three bolts protect the climb, spaced to require confident clipping and controlled movement. Bring a standard sport rack and focus on clipping technique to avoid swing falls in the tight climbing corridor.
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