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Don't Be Jenga: A Bold Sport Climb at Green Head Cove

Saint John, Canada
sport climbing
roof climb
technical moves
runout
boulder problem
hand crack
traverse
coastal rock
PG13
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Don't Be Jenga
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Don’t Be Jenga is a test of precision and resolve on Green Head Cove’s Main Cliff. This bold single-pitch sport climb challenges you beneath a daunting roof with powerful moves and a tricky traverse, delivering sustained technicality and exposure in a stunning coastal setting."

Don't Be Jenga: A Bold Sport Climb at Green Head Cove

Don't Be Jenga charges the right flank of The Main Cliff in Green Head Cove, demanding focus and finesse from the first clipped bolt. This 80-foot single-pitch sport route begins beneath a prominent roof-block that looms like a challenge daring you to trust your feet. Standing on a massive, chair-sized rock, you launch into a powerful opening move that sets the tone: precise footwork and controlled tension are vital here. From this precarious stance, you clip the next bolt under the roof, edging right to escape the shelter’s shadow and meet the vertical hand crack carving a line upwards.

As you gain height, the rock breathes beneath your hands; the crack offers a natural groove, rough yet inviting, coaxing you skyward. Surpassing the overhanging block marks a shift to a horizontal traverse leftward, secured by solid handholds and bolted protection at the far end. This traverse transitions you toward the final section: a vertical to slightly overhanging headwall that demands your utmost effort. The concluding boulder problem, shielded by a lone bolt, reveals the route’s finest climbing—sharp, sustained, and unyielding.

Green Head Cove itself stands as a quietly commanding backdrop, its coastal winds weaving through the cliff’s contours and carrying the scent of salt and pine. Climbers here find a blend of raw physical challenge and a landscape that doesn’t distract, but sharpens awareness. Given the tough moves and runout between the second and third bolts—where a 20-foot swing could test your nerve—the route calls for climbers comfortable with PG13-style consequences. While the current bolt placement leaves some uncertainty near the 'death block,' ongoing efforts hope to add security without compromising the line's character.

Gear up with confidence in your sport climbing kit, but temper ambition with focus; footwear with precise edging capability is crucial given the small footholds around the roof and the delicate traverse outboard. Timing your climb for morning or early afternoon can mean climbing in balanced light and cooler temperatures, as the cliff faces south-east and welcomes the sun but retains shadow in pockets around the big roof. Approach from the well-marked trailhead to Green Head Cove—a brief, uneven hike that rewards with views over the sea and cliffs alike—gives a sense of arrival and readiness.

Safety on Don’t Be Jenga is part instinct and part preparation. Respect the runouts, test your gear placements before trusting, and avoid slack that could swing you toward the block. The rock is generally solid but keep a close eye on edges, especially near the traverse. Descent comes by a controlled rappel or carefully downclimbing the approach trail, both offering moments to catch your breath and reflect on the commitment just made.

This climb is a compelling choice for strong sport climbers eager for a technical, sustained test in an inspiring coastal setting. It isn’t just about the physical moves, but the mental edge required to manage the runout and navigate the nuanced roof and boulder sequences. Don’t Be Jenga doesn’t just ask for effort—it demands respect.

Climber Safety

The runout near the 'death block' demands extra caution; falling here risks a long swing. Avoid slack in your system and consider the potential impact paths carefully. The rock is generally stable, but inspect holds before trusting, especially in the traverse section.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat afternoon heat and catch the optimal lighting on the wall.

Practice clipping on lead to safely manage the runout section under the block.

Hydrate well; the approach trail offers little shade on sunny days.

Double-check rope and harness setup before the roof moves to avoid surprises.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+ PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating here comes with an added psychological edge due to the runout between bolts two and three. While the climbing itself is solidly in the hard intermediate range, the potential for a 20-foot swing elevates the seriousness. Compared to nearby Green Head routes, Don’t Be Jenga stands out as one of the more committed sport lines, requiring precise movement across the roof and a technical finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws; note the runout between the second and third bolts may require careful clipping and trust in your clipping technique. A few extra draws could help avoid drag on the traverse. Shoes with aggressive edging capabilities are recommended.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof climb
technical moves
runout
boulder problem
hand crack
traverse
coastal rock
PG13