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Dominatrix at Three Dihedrals, Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad climbing
crack climb
single pitch
moderate
Boulder Canyon
2-bolt anchor
pine tree start
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Dominatrix
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dominatrix is a focused single-pitch trad climb in Boulder Canyon's quieter Avalon sector. It blends sustained crack climbing and a smartly protected corner under a shady pine, inviting climbers to refine technique on solid 5.8 moves with a touch of 5.10a options nearby."

Dominatrix at Three Dihedrals, Boulder Canyon

Dominatrix offers a grounded yet invigorating trad experience tucked in Boulder Canyon’s winding expanse. The route begins just below the ridge line near a large pine, where a left-facing corner invites climbers into a measured challenge. Starting 20 feet downhill from the established Dominator route, Dominatrix demands a steady blend of crack and corner climbing that rewards with both technique and exposure. The initial section crosses a bolt-protected section rated 5.8, offering a useful safety net before transitioning into a more natural crack system for the harder moves. Climbers can explore the cracks left of the main corner, raising the difficulty to 5.10a for those seeking a stiffer test.

After the corner, a deliberate step to the right leads into a clean V-dihedral. Here, a solid crack provides reliable holds and gear placements, pushing upward toward the two-bolt anchor stationed on a small top ledge. This single pitch climb stretches about 90 feet, a length that keeps the movement continuous but manageable, ideal for those looking to build trad confidence or warm up on the less crowded tiers of Boulder Canyon.

The setting itself is a study in rugged quiet — the pine tree at the base whispers through its needles, while the rock’s texture shifts from smooth faces to sharply defined cracks. Dry conditions are best to keep friction consistent, especially on the subtle edging required at the route’s crux moves. Boulder Canyon’s temperate microclimate suggests a spring or fall ascent for optimal comfort when the sun angles just right across the face, avoiding excessive heat or cold.

Gear-wise, a standard mixed rack extending to 3 inches is recommended, topped with a single bolt early in the climb and a solid two-bolt anchor to secure your belay. The protection quality leans toward straightforward placements with manageable but mindful gear selection—paying attention to crack continuity and occasional flared sections aids in a confident upward push. Access is relatively straightforward, with an easy approach trail connecting the tiers of Avalon and Three Dihedrals, offering climbers a short but pleasant hike through open rocky terrain punctuated by scattered pines.

Dominatrix carves out a practical but scenic trad option that balances technical movement with a welcoming corridor of rock. Whether rounding out a day of climbing or searching for a moderate challenge with high-quality protection, this route rewards attention to detail and steady footwork. Expect a moderate pump from the sustained crack climbing, paired with the satisfaction of a clean, well-protected ascent framed by Boulder’s distinctive mountain landscape. Finished climbers rappel carefully from the bolted anchors at the top, with a straightforward descent slope guiding them safely back to the trailhead.

Climber Safety

Be cautious approaching the route’s start; the ledge below the anchor is small and requires attentiveness during the belay. Check gear placements carefully where cracks flare to avoid any uncertain pro, and watch for slick rock patches after rain or snowmelt.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Avalon trailhead and watch for the pine tree marking the route start.

Spring and fall offer the best temperatures and friction for this climb.

Bring shoes with solid edging to manage the corner’s subtle footholds.

Double-check anchor bolts before setting the belay and plan your rappel with a 60-meter rope.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to form, with the actual technical crux centered on the corner’s initial moves and a step right into the V-dihedral. The placement of protection softens the runout, making it an accessible climb for those moving up from beginner cracks. The 5.10a crack just left of the corner adds a tougher option but remains clearly separate, leaving Dominatrix comfortably within a moderate level.

Gear Requirements

Carry a trad rack up to 3 inches, complemented by one bolt on the initial corner section and a two-bolt anchor to top out safely. The gear placements are straightforward but require keen attention to crack size and flaring.

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Tags

trad climbing
crack climb
single pitch
moderate
Boulder Canyon
2-bolt anchor
pine tree start