"Doggie Style is a 50-foot trad route offering a raw, hands-on experience on Shelf Road’s Bank sector. Expect loose rock requiring active cleaning and a rack heavy on small nuts and cams, perfect for climbers who appreciate straightforward yet gritty trad lines."
Perched on the craggy edges of Shelf Road, Doggie Style presents a straightforward but gritty trad climb that challenges both your technique and your vigilance. This single-pitch, 50-foot wall invites climbers into terrain that is raw and somewhat unsettled—the rock remains lively, with loose shards that demand active cleaning to secure safe placements. This route unfolds in The Bank sector, where Splitters jostle for space alongside less stable chunks, creating a mixed terrain that's as much about patience as it is about power.
The climb’s 5.9 rating is approachable but not without its moments, particularly as you navigate sections where pro placements require a keen eye and steady hands. Expect to rely heavily on a rack stocked with a range of small nuts and cams, carefully threading gear into cracks that test your judgment more than your strength. The rock’s shifting nature means protection placements might feel marginal, so cautious movement is key; you’re partnering with the cliff’s inherent unpredictability here.
Shelf Road itself spreads across the bare, sunbaked hills just outside Canon City, Colorado, where the summer glare offsets the crag’s occasional shaded pockets. This stretch of canyon wall has been a magnet for climbers seeking uncomplicated routes paired with big, open vistas. From the base, you can hear the occasional whisper of wind brushing across the sandstone, as if the cliff exhales quietly beneath your boots. The approach traverses dry, angled paths dotted with sparse vegetation, requiring firm footwear and an alert step.
Timing your ascent for early morning or late afternoon helps beat the intense midday heat, allowing the rock to retain a comfortable grip and giving you the chance to move efficiently through the route’s tighter sections. With only one pitch, Doggie Style fits well into a half-day outing or as a warm-up before tackling longer lines nearby. However, don’t let the brevity fool you—the climb’s rugged nature encourages respect and readiness.
Given its condition, thorough cleaning before ascent plays a vital role in safety and enjoyment. Loose rock isn’t just a nuisance here—it’s an active element of the climb, nudging you into steadier choices and thoughtful progression. For those looking to immerse themselves in Shelf Road’s traditional climbing character without overly polished holds or bolts, this line stands as a practical yet adventurous pick. With some preparation, smart rack selection, and a cautious approach, Doggie Style can deliver a rewarding taste of Colorado trad climbing that humbly demands your skills and attention.
Watch for loose rock throughout the climb, especially near the base and key placements. Take time to clean carefully and test holds before weighting. The fall potential on marginal gear means a cautious ascent is essential.
Approach early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun and heat.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging due to loose rock underfoot.
Take extra cleaning gear to remove loose debris on the route.
Double-check every protection placement given the unstable nature of the rock.
Bring a full rack with an emphasis on small nuts and cams to handle tricky placements amid loose rock. Active cleaning tools recommended for safety.
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