"A tight left-leaning crack rising through a roof to a ledge and a delicate exit move defines Doctor Merkwurdigliebe. This single-pitch Colorado trad climb challenges your crack skills with precise placements and demands attention to a loose flake near the top."
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe offers a compact but memorable trad climb tucked into the rugged North Face of Third Flatiron, just outside Boulder, Colorado. This route challenges climbers with a distinctive left-leaning crack that winds through an awkward overhang, demanding both steady hand jams and confident footwork. The crack’s natural flow guides you up to a modest ledge that rewards careful movement and route finding. The final exit swings right, where a loose flake commands respect—testing your judgment just before the climb’s conclusion. Its single 40-foot pitch packs a concentrated dose of technical climbing, perfect for those looking to sharpen crack skills in a brief but dynamic setting.
The climbing terrain blends the coarse sandstone typical of the Flatirons, offering solid friction beneath your fingers, while the rock’s angle forces engagement with balance and subtle body positioning. Protection placements require thoughtful selection—yellow or blue Camalots protect the tricky exit move best, while smaller passive nuts fit snugly in the leaning crack. This protection profile makes it vital to carry a diverse rack, including a #3.5 Camalot and an Alien, to secure the climb safely.
The approach is straightforward: a short hike from popular trailheads around Boulder places you within a few minutes of the route’s base at 39.9874 latitude and -105.29199 longitude. The area’s open exposure means morning sun hits the wall early, warming the holds, but afternoon shade arrives swiftly—timing your climb in cooler hours can enhance grip and comfort.
Ideal for climbers comfortable at 5.8 trad routes seeking a concentrated session with technical crack sequences, Doctor Merkwurdigliebe invites close attention to foot placement and gear choices. The loose feature near the top warns against complacency—stay alert and test any suspect rock before committing your weight. Boulder’s scenic vistas open around you, lending a refreshing backdrop to the focused effort required here. Whether you’re honing crack technique or simply chasing a satisfying short climb on quality sandstone, this route balances manageable length with engaging moves that reward precision and smart gear use.
Be especially cautious of the loose flake near the exit; test its stability thoroughly prior to weighting it. The roof section also requires solid protection to prevent long falls in case of a slip.
Approach from the popular Third Flatiron trailhead; the walk takes about 15 minutes on well-marked paths.
Early morning climbs offer better friction and avoid afternoon shadows that cool the rock quickly.
Double-check the loose flake at the top before committing your weight; test placements carefully.
Bring a varied rack including small cams and passive nuts to protect the leaning crack and final moves.
A diverse rack including yellow and blue Camalots is essential, especially for the exit's tricky protection. Small nuts fit well in the left-leaning crack, with larger pieces like a #3.5 Camalot and an Alien recommended for securing moves above the roof.
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