"Doctor Doctor Doctor offers a crisp two-pitch trad climb up the south face of Monkey Dome. Expect sustained crack climbing with a single bolt for relief and breathtaking views over Joshua Tree’s arid expanse."
On the rugged southern flank of Monkey Dome, the route "Doctor Doctor Doctor" offers climbers an engaging two-pitch trad experience that cuts through mostly crack systems, demanding both technique and strategic protection. This climb is defined by its straightforward but solid moves along clean rock, punctuated by a solitary bolt that serves as a reminder to stay on your protection game. The granite here is textured and weathered, encouraging confident hand jams and precise foot placements that keep you connected to the stone.
From the base, the approach follows subtle contours of the desert floor, with Joshua Tree's characteristic desert scrub and sunbaked trails guiding you toward the starting point at the right side of the south face. Once on route, the rock feels lively beneath your fingertips—the cracks daring your hands to find purchase while the expanse of the desert unfolds in the background. The first pitch tests your crack climbing fundamentals, requiring a balance of strength and finesse to navigate the holds and placements. The bolt, a single sentinel on the line, offers a moment of reassurance amid traditional protection.
Moving into the second pitch, the climb continues its rhythm of sustained cracks that favor versatile rack use. Climbers will want a selection from small to large cams, ready for varied placements in the clean fissures that invite exploration. The exposure begins to open on this pitch, with sweeping views of Joshua Tree’s sprawling natural playground granting a compelling backdrop to your ascent.
Despite a modest star rating, this route delivers value through its pure traditional style and the silent challenge of reading the rock. It’s a prime choice for those wanting to refine crack skills and savor a manageable multi-pitch climb within the iconic desert setting. Prepare for sun exposure by timing your climb in the cooler parts of the day, and bring plenty of hydration for the dry trail and desert heat.
With just two pitches, "Doctor Doctor Doctor" makes for a focused outing—long enough to engage, short enough to fit into a half day. After topping out, climbers can soak in the vast Joshua Tree panorama before descending on well-traveled trails. Whether you're ticking off your crack-building ambitions or looking for a straightforward trad line with classic desert vibes, this climb rewards with character and solid rock underfoot.
Watch for sun exposure on the south face—heat can build quickly. The single bolt means careful placement is essential; verify cams and nuts before each move. The approach includes loose rock sections requiring cautious footing.
Start early to avoid the midday heat on exposed sections.
Hydrate well before and during the climb—Joshua Tree’s desert environment is dry and intense.
Check your rack for a full range of cams, focusing on sizes from small to large.
Approach is mostly straightforward but wear sturdy shoes for the trail’s rocky terrain.
Bring a well-rounded rack covering small to large cams to protect the varied crack systems. One quickdraw is enough to clip the single bolt placed midway. Solid nut placements supplement protection opportunities.
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